Well fed and rested we leave Boca Manu, leaving the relatively clean waters of the Madre de Dios River behind, we enter the clay laden waters of the Manu River. With a brief stop at the park ranger station at Limonal to present our permits we travel for about five hours up the Manu. Beaches, especially in the dry season, are loaded with nesting birds and feeding Herons, Egrets, Orinoco Geese, Terns and Skimmers to name but a few. Some beaches will host sunning White and Black Caimans (South American relatives of the Alligators)/ and breeding Side-necked Turtles. Hundreds of Sand-colored Nightjars roost during the day on logs and beaches and there is a chance of encountering a sunning Jaguar – the world’s third largest cat. In 2007 one in three of our trips saw Jaguar in Manu. We will see some species of primate on this river trip, possibly Red Howler Monkeys or the smaller Squirrel Monkeys. After having lunched by the river we arrive at the Casa Machuguenka Lodge. We’ll have the afternoon to explore some of the trails through the pristine rainforest in the area. A visit to the lake of Cocha Otorongo is planned, where observation piers and a 20 meter observation tower in the rainforest canopy overlooking the lake are available for observing wildlife. We will also be on the lookout for a large family of Giant Otters that inhabit this lake. Before or after dinner an optional excursion into the forest at night is available with your guide in search of nocturnal creatures. The lakes are full of eye-shine of the large Black Caiman and if we are lucky we may encounter an Olingo, Kinkajou or even an Ocelot on the trails. Certainly the nighttime noise of tree frogs and insects in the forest is an experience not to be forgotten. We stay at our tented camp. There are shared flush toilets and ambient temperature shower facilities and screened twin rooms with comfortable beds and mosquito nets.

 As accomplished:

We didn’t have to get up until 5:45, but the other group staying at the lodge got up and left about 5.  On the positive side, it meant there were no lines to use the facilities.  Breakfast consisted of the usual scrambled eggs.  So, while we were generally well fed, I for one was not well rested.

 We left the dock about 7a to head up river into the Manu Preserve.  We again passed by the village of Boca Manu.  Note the height of the river bank.

Boca Manu

And we saw the local water taxi.

River Transport on the Manu

After the previous evening’s rain, the sky had cleared up quite nicely.  Moreover, now that we were on the more languid Manu River, the boatman had slowed his pace.  We even idled to take in new birds–and there were many, especially on the beaches.

We stopped at the Limonal ranger station to sign in. 

Manu National Park Ranger Station at Limonal

This carved cayman resided in the front lawn.

We also got a chance to stretch our legs on a sandbar about 10:30 and then had lunch on another about 12:30.  There were lots of little biting sand flies.  The bites didn’t hurt immediately, but they later swelled up into little boils.

Isabelle & Felicia on sandbar

Klaus & Manu Expeditions Canoe

 The tallest trees in the rainforest were kapok which sometimes had these huge sets of tendrils.

A capybara lounging in the shade along the river bank passed by too quickly for me to get a photo, but this cayman was busy enjoying the sun.

Black Cayman

We arrived at the InkaNatura Manu Tented Camp about 1:45, where we had until 3 pm to unpack and rest.

Cabin at InkaNatura Manu Tented Camp

We walked through the rainforest for about 2 hours.  We saw two types of monkeys (spider and gray wooly), along with a number of birds.

Rainforest canopy

An abandoned wasps nest

After two hours in the sauna of the forest, the cold shower at the camp felt good. 

 At this camp, Fortunato did the cooking.  The dining hall was small and not really set up for sitting around.  There was another couple with a guide staying at the lodge.  They had seen a jaguar twice, on two consecutive days, but, alas, we never saw one.

Pre-breakfast walk to a nearby spot in the Cloud Forest where the strange and beautiful Cocks-of-the-Rock display at dawn. This is a wonderful sight, as up to 25 bright red-orange males dance and sing, attempting to attract the favors of the duller, burgundy colored females. After visiting this lek we return to the Lodge for a leisurely breakfast and continue in our all terrain bus to the Madre de Dios River and our motorized dugouts and we begin our journey down the river, past the last folds of the Andes, to it’s confluence with the Manu River. We’ll pass settlements and native communities during the trip. Just before we get to the village of Boca Manu we pass the native community of Diamante. Their culture is Piro and this is the largest settlement in the area. Passing the village of Boca Manu we arrive at tonights destination -a small, locally built and managed lodge. The lodge is across the river from the tiny airstrip of Boca Manu. The two species of Tamarin monkeys are here -the Saddleback and Emperor. The latter with their long, white moustaches are a rare and precious sight. There is a trail system we can explore if time permits. Night at Boca Manu Lodge.

 As accomplished:  Except for staying in a different lodge and an accidental fully-clothed “shower”, this day went as planned.

Klaus woke us at 5; we had 10 minutes to get ready to walk to the Cock of the Rock blind.  Several people thought it was still raining and went back to sleep; in actuality, there was just a lot of dripping as the foliage shed last night’s precipitation.  I was the only one ready on time, so Klaus and I left for the blind which was a 10-minute stroll up the road.  Elaine caught up with us, and Amy and Larry arrived  about the time the birds began their display.  Felicia and Isabelle were heading up the road as we were returning to the lodge.  (Note: most of the bird pictures I will be posting come from the internet; I only took a small elph camera which is not capable of capturing good shots of moving targets in low light.  If the source or photographer did not transfer with the photo, my apologies.)

Cock-of-the-Rock

The forest dripped from the previous night’s rain, but there was a very nice thatch-roofed blind for viewing the birds.  In the early morning twilight, first one male arrived, then another, and soon there were four to six of the noisy birds at the lek.  Each was vying for some unseen female’s attention, both vocally and with wing-flapping and a curious bobbing motion.  Follow these links for more images  of Cock-of-the-Rock, a video with sound, and a video with two birds competing.

 Breakfast was at 7—pancakes.  There were several feeders outside the dining hall and lots of hummingbirds, including a Booted Racket-tail, Long-tailed Sylph, White-bellied Woodstar, Giant Hummingbird, Many-spotted Hummingbird, and Violet-fronted Brilliant. 

Booted Racket-tail

Long-tailed Sylph

White-bellied Woodstar

Giant Hummingbird

Many-spotted Hummingbird

Violet-fronted Brilliant

Sometime in the past someone’s brown capuchin monkey-pets had escaped or been freed, and they had taken up residence near the lodge.  Normally they are found at lower elevations.  Everyone wished we had had more time to bird and see the wildlife, but since we had arrived late, we had lost our viewing time.

Brown capuchin monkey

The van left at 8, and we got to the village where we would transfer to a boat a little after 10.  Most of that time we had been continuing our descent of almost 10,000 feet, primarily along a winding road in a narrow canyon.  All at once we had emerged from the canyon and the dense forest to find a broad, swampy river plain. 

Madre de Dios River

We made one stop in a town where Klaus made a call and Fortunato bought bread and other fresh supplies.  Our driver was more laid back now that he wasn’t trying to make up for lost time and get to the lodge before dark and dinner was over. 

While we waited for all our stuff to be loaded onto the boat at Atalaya, Felicia bought bananas and we all paid for our use of the facilities. 

The trash & recycling bins reminded me of Eva in Wall-E

We finally set off around 10:45.  In this boat, we always wore our life jackets.   The river was latte-colored, fast-moving, filled with floating logs and other debris, and tricky to navigate.

Manu Expeditions boat at Atalays from steveandramonaboone.com

Within 10 minutes of leaving the dock, Jesus (our boatman) turned into a wave or wake and I got swamped.  I ended up sitting in a puddle.  Larry had been sitting with his leg on the side wale and a bunch of water went way up his leg.  At least is was warm and the wind from the moving boat helped dry our clothes, except for our seats.

When I looked back towards the mountains from whence we had come, they were shrouded by clouds.

From River to Mountains

There were a few scattered settlements along the river, and we occasionally saw a fisherman or passed a lone river traveler.

Along the Madre de Dios

Fishing by net

Note the muddy, choppy water

It was hard to see birds very well as we were speeding along, but we saw Neotropic Cormorant, Fasciated Tiger-Heron, Cocoi Heron, Great Egret, Capped Heron, Snowy Egret, Little Blue Heron, Andean Gull, Yellow-billed Tern, Large-billed Tern, Red-and-green Macaw, Chestnut-fronted Macaw, plus others.  At 12:30 we stopped on a sand bar for a lunch of stuffed chicken roll and veggies.  (The food was good, but the menu was getting pretty repetitive.)

While the following picture isn’t very pleasing to the eye, it illustrates how dense the vegetation is along the banks of the river and how the river constantly eats away at the land.  Chunks of the bank, along with whatever is growing in the mud, are swept away by the river.  Some of the trees and debris float beneath the river’s surface, so the boatman must be ever vigilant.  Although the bank isn’t very high here, on the slower-moving Manu River they were usually much higher.

Madre de Dios river banks

We got to Boca Manu about 3:30 p.m.  There weren’t many birds after lunch, so some of us nodded off.  The sunshine in these photos was a rarity as it generally was very overcast and quite cool on the boat due to the wind.  I only used the boat poncho to break the wind, but others were really bundled up.

Kapok Trees along Madre de Dios

We stopped at Boca Manu Lodge for a walk, on which we saw saddleback tamarin. 

Saddleback Tamarin by Rebecca Hausman

 This was our first opportunity to walk in the jungle.  While we saw all sorts of interesting plants and some birds, it was so dark under the canopy that I only managed a couple of usable photos.

After the walk, we motored to Yine Lodge where we had very nice wooden cabins and a communal toilet/shower facility.  The lodge is a joint venture between an eco-tourism company and the Yine Indians.  Started in 2001, the plan calls for the facilities to be turned over completely to the Yine in 2011.

Cabin at Yine Lodge

Elaine and I made the mistake of walking to the nearby airfield in short sleeves; it was swarming with mosquitos. 

After we showered, we gathered to drink beer and go over our bird list.  This lodge had a nice, roomy dining and lounging area.  Dinner was served at 7; a curry-like beef dish.  At some point while we were in the lodge it started to rain.

Day 1 itinerary:

Leaving Cusco after breakfast around 7:00 a.m. we travel through traditional Quechua communities and through the spectacular eastern ranges of the Andes to the village of Paucartambo, passing snow-peaks and small Andean farmsteads. We will have time here to look around this picturesque village.  We then ascend to the last pass overlooking the Amazon Basin and begin the breath-taking descent from 3500 meters to 1600 meters above sea-level to our comfortable lodge in the orchid laden Cloud Forest. This is a spectacular journey passing cascading waterfalls and multicolored birds along the way. In the late afternoon, we’ll walk into the lodge to the sounds of Quetzals, Trogons and Gray-breasted Wood-Wrens. Night at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge.

Day 1 as accomplished:

Instead of being the last person to board the Manu Expeditions’ van, I was the first.  Scheduled for a 6:45 a.m. pick-up, I was, luckily, just finishing my breakfast when the van arrived at 6:15.  Moreover, I had already handed off my large suitcase for storage until my return, and the small duffel I would take with me was at the door.  Being first turned out to be a blessing.  I got my choice of seats, and I, of course, picked the one behind the driver.

With five fellow tour-mates, our guide, cook, and driver plus all of our food and gear for a week, the van ended up being very full.

From Cusco we headed east over the mountains towards the Amazon basin.  About an hour after leaving Pisaq where the pavement ended, as we were winding our way down a mountain, the right front tire blew.  The driver pulled over, and we piled out.  Klaus took us on a stroll to find birds while the driver and Fortunato, our cook, got the spare off the roof.  Sometime later, the van pulled up; it still had the blown tire on it.  The spare was also flat.  We piled back in, and the driver proceeded very slowly.  When a bicyclist passed, the driver asked where he might get the tire fixed.  Supposedly it wasn’t far to a village, and there was someone there who could help us.  So we continued on, passing through the village where the one store we saw was boarded up tight.  Maybe a mile later the driver stopped; the tire was in shreds.  More bicyclists indicated we had missed the place, so the driver and cook take the spare off the roof,  and the driver began rolling it back to the village.  A car came along and Fortunato hitched a ride to the village.  Meanwhile, Klaus took his satellite phone and climbed to the top of the ridge to call Cusco.  The company would send someone with new tires.  The rest of us lounged or strolled; some searched for birds. Elaine concerned herself over a wounded dog, and Felicia tried to talk to a woman walking by, but she didn’t understand Spanish. 

Our van

Its tire

The view

The traffic on the road

Sunday rubberneckers

Eventually we saw the driver rolling the tire down the hill toward the van.  But Klaus reported that it wasn’t usable, so he climbed a shorter hill and called back to the office on his satellite phone.  The next thing we knew, Klaus was telling us we had to walk.  Seems like I’d heard this before, only this time I didn’t have to drag my suitcase along.  (See my post on “Road Walking Peruvian Style.”) 

We walked to the next village (Paucartambo?); it took about two hours and was quite pleasant.  Along the way we saw painted sheep like I had seen on Taquile.

Painted Sheep

While some of us waited for the last of the group to arrive, Felicia befriended a young boy who was fascinated with her binoculars. 

Felicia with boy who had never seen binoculars

It was Sunday and this market town was filled with people.  Unlike some villages I’d been in, the women here wore a wide variety of hats.

Which hat do you like best?

The next thing we knew Klaus was telling us to return to the upper edge of town where we would have lunch.  There was our van, still with its shredded tire. I gathered that the driver had continued on after we were out of sight, going very slowly.  Perhaps he thought reducing the weight was necessary; maybe Klaus just wanted to keep us busy.  Klaus never said why we were walking, but I think we were all happier to have been walking than standing around.

 Fortunato doled out lunch, and we ate in the van.  It probably was at least 2pm.  As we were sitting there, a van covered with painted ants and filled with a larger group of tourists passed by.  The drivers exchanged comments.  Lots of people walked by, looked at the tire, and laughed.  Just as the cook was packing up, our replacement van arrived.  So the two drivers and the cook transferred all our stuff to the new van.  The replacement van had a smaller luggage compartment but more seats.  More stuff had to go on the roof and that took time to secure and cover with tarps.

 We finally left the village just after 3 pm.  The new driver seemed to be trying to make up for lost time.  While I never felt endangered by his speed, it was a very curvy road and my stomach did not like the ride at all.  As we neared the pass where we would start our descent down to the jungle, clouds loomed on the horizon.

I was feeling pretty green when we stopped at the entrance to Manu National Park on the top of Acjanaco Pass (3,550m). 

The above pictures are deceptive.  Just a few feet higher at the mirador, I could barely find the monument in the fog.

Monument to Sven Ericsson

Within a distance of less than a kilometer, we had moved from the dry grasslands of the western slopes of the Andes to the humid rainforests of the eastern slopes.

Then, we careened down the mountain into the cloud forest.  It was foggy and getting dark.  Much of the road was only wide enough for one car.  There were no guard rails, and in places the drop-offs were precipitous.

View from Mirador down to the Madre de Dios River

In the following version, you can see the road switchbacking down the mountain.

The road down towards the jungle

Soon it started to rain.  As it grew darker and darker, we would sometimes glimpse a waterfall in the dense forest.

About 15-20 riding minutes from our lodge we passed the ant van.  It was now marooned with a flat tire, and its passengers were walking to their lodge in the dark and the pouring rain along a pothole-infested dirt road.  Klaus said they had a 2 to 3 hour walk before them as their lodge was beyond ours. 

 We arrived at the Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge around 6:30.  I was assigned to cabin #2.  (This photo was obviously taken the next morning as it was pitch dark and pouring rain with we arrived.)

Cabin at Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge

We were told to assemble for dinner in 10 minutes. The cabins were nice, wooden with private bathrooms and propane-heated water.  There was no electricity

 We were given a welcoming Pisco sour, and several of us ordered beer.  It had been a long, grueling day that was harder on my stomach than the Inca Trail had been on my knees.  For dinner we had broccoli soup, some sort of hot beef stew with rice, and melon for dessert.

 I took a shower and was in bed by 9.

Anyone want to take bets that the pile will not have totally disappeared by the time I return?

Of course, we now have to prepare for the next storm with its 5″-10″ which will arrive tomorrow afternoon.

Since Nina made all the arrangements, I had no direct contact with the office staff for this company.  They were pretty iffy about whether the trip was going to occur or not, exactly how it would be run, and several other logistical items; all of which made Nina very nervous.  I persisted in my choice and paid for the trip.  And, we heard nothing.

As we neared my departure date, Nina checked with them and was told the trip would occur.  It would have been nice of them to let us know.  I found out on the trip that three of the others had paid their money about the same time I had.  All that worry and aggravation had been unnecessary.  Moreover, the member of this group of three who had done the booking seemed to be having a running disagreement with the tour guide about sleeping arrangements as in a triple vs a double + a single.  Whether this was the result of a lack of communication, misunderstanding, or obfuscation, I don’t know.  I do know that I paid the single supplement, and there never was a question about my accommodations.

The company did let Nina know in advance that air service from the small field near Boca Manu was no longer available, so there would be a change in itinerary.  In addition, some of the lodges we stayed at were not the ones listed in the itinerary, but that was probably for the better. 

During the trip, things happened which I will talk about as I discuss the trip.  For me, they provide interesting travel stories.  Thus, if you are considering an extended visit to Manu, not just a couple-day visit to a lodge near Puerto Montalnado, be prepared for an adventure.  If all goes as originally planned, consider yourself extremely lucky.

Klaus Macedo was an extremely knowledgeable guide.  With his help we saw an amazing number of birds, many types of monkeys, giant otters, and a tapir.  The only disappointment with respect to wildlife was that we did not get to see a jaguar.  Another group who traveled along the same stretch of river on the same day did see one.

I really enjoyed this trip, so if you are prepared to deal with an office staff that might not be totally upfront about everything and to be flexible about itinerary changes on the fly, I highly recommend it.

A teaser

Our cook's final presentation

Presumably, he had baked it the day before, but even so, I wouldn’t have been inclined to whip up frosting and decorate a cake at 3:30 in the morning.  Along with the cake, we had tea and rolls.

We left camp by 4 and were the first in line at 4:20 a.m., but a group of 6 Danes were hot on our heels.  By the time the sanctuary entrance opened at 5:30 a.m., the line stretched way back, and it was still dark.  Each guide had to check his party in with the steward, who carefully examined all the paperwork.

Entrance Gate near Winay Wayna

Once inside the gate, Yvette and Andrew took off even though they only had one headlamp between them.  In the dark with a steep drop-off on one side, I took my time on the uneven steps.  Most people passed me, but there was no way I could safely go faster, even with a headlamp.  Besides, I knew I would still arrive at the Sun Gate (Intipunku) before the sun, so why rush.  Ah, the benefits of many years of experience!

After an hour’s walk, as we neared Intipunku, Machu Picchu finally came into view.

My Initial View of Machu Picchu

It was from this point that one got the best perspective of the old city and the new road used by all the bus riders to get to it.

The road to Machu Picchu

The Intipunku itself was singularly unexciting in the twilight.

Intipunku

The following view of the trail down from Intipunku to Machu Picchu was taken much later in the morning.

Intipunku and the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

It was about 7:15 when I made my final descent to Machu Picchu.  Pachacuti’s royal retreat was still in the shadows.

The Final Descent to Machu Picchu

A herd of llamas keeps the grass cut.

Machu Picchu at first light

When entering the site via the Inca Trail, one enters via the agricultural sector.  The gatehouse is the thatch-roofed structure towards the upper left.  Was this the junkyard for unwanted boulders or was there a reason why this area was not cleaned up and terraced?

Agricultural Sector

 The estate, which probably had a resident population of between 300 and 1,000 people, consisted of two urban sectors.  The Western or Upper Sector included the Temple of the Sun, the Intiwatana, the unfinished Sacred Plaza, and the royal residence.  The Eastern or Lower Sector included the Sacred Rock, an unfinished temple, and the Temple of the Condor.

In the following photo, the Sun Temple is the circular building below me to the right and the Initiwatana is just above my head.

In the following view, one gets a better a better perspective on the Eastern Sector.

but it’s hard to get a good grasp of the relative sizes and elevations of the various components of the Western Sector.

The Sun Temple and Intiwatana

Here, a group of tourists waits to visit the Sun Temple.  The Royal Residence is to its right.

Sun Temple and Royal Residence

Entrance to Royal Tomb

Stonework inside Royal Tomb

North Window of Sun Temple at Machu Picchu

Inside the Sun Temple, facing East

A view of the Sun Temple from below

Sun Temple

The East Wall of the Principal Temple settled during Inca times

Intiwatana Pyramid

A sculptural representation of Huayna Picchu?

In the Temple of the Condor in the Eastern Sector the Inca artisans used a combination of natural rock features, stonework, and carvings.

A Condor Wing?

Condor Rock

Unfortunately, our visit had to come to an end.  Andrew and Yvette gave their tickets for Huayna Picchu to an American teenager and his dad; Yvette has sprained her ankle on the sprint in the early morning darkness.  We all met for pizza at a small cafe by the railroad tracks in Aguas Calientes, and then said our goodbyes at the train station.  They returned to Cusco, while I spent the afternoon investigating the shops and visiting an internet cafe.

Andrew and Yvette were heading off to Bolivia; my next stop was the Peruvian jungle.

At Intipata we had some great views down to the Urubamba River Valley.  (On the side of the mountain to the right in the photo below, you can see the short “Inca Trail” that begins near Km 104.)

Urubamba River Valley from Intipata

And, although we had descended over 3,000′ from the 3rd pass and were lower than we were at our starting point, we were still high in the mountains.

Andrew and Yvette at Intipata

The View from Intipata

But, the flag at Machu Picchu was much closer.

The Flag on Machu Picchu Mt from Intipata

Intipata has  just a few buildings

One of the few buildings at Intipata

and 48 terraces.

Terraces at Intipata

I actually managed to find a wiñaywayna orchid in the lush hillside vegetation as we continued our descent to Wiñay Huayna.

Wiñaywayna Orchid near Intipata

We arrived at our Wiñay Huayna campsite around 1 p.m.  Lunch was ready: tuna in mashed potatoes, quinoa soup, beef steak, cabbage slaw, lentils, rice, potatoes.  Far too many carbs for an easy, half-day of hiking, and very unexciting.

Our tents were pitched in the direct sun, something that had not been a problem when the porters set up camp in the late afternoon.  My deodorant and Blistex had melted and then congealed into globs.  In fact, it was almost impossible to get the lids off.

Civilization restarts at Wiñay Huayna.  Among the available amenities: hot showers and cold drinks, including beer.  The shower with towel rental cost 10 soles; a cold coke 5.  There was no line when we arrived at the showers, but by the time we finished our showers and cokes, there was.

At 3 p.m. Romero led us off to visit the ruins of Wiñay Wayna, which means “forever young.” 

Wiñay Wayna

Like the other ruins we had seen along the trail, the Inca had built to take advantage of the topography.  The terraces followed the contours of the mountainside, and canals from mountain springs delivered water for people and crops. 

There were also some interesting inconsistencies, especially in the quality of the stonework.  Parts of some walls were of the mortarless fine cut work seen in Cusco.

One of the better walls at Wiñay Wayna

But, there seemed to be no pattern to the quality of stonework.

A series of “baths” or fountains channeled the water between the upper and lower building sectors.

Fountains or baths linked the upper and lower sectors

Looking down the cascading fountains

The steps were just as steep!

The steps between the upper and lower sectors

The fountains still worked.

A fountain at Winay Wayna

Where the vegetation had not been removed along the hillside, I found several flowering plants,

including some very large fuschia bushes.

Fuschia

For our last dinner, our cook had obviously replenished his supplies for we had stuffed chicken breast, some mystery meat, a beet and carrot salad, potatoes, rice, and jello with pineapple.

Ever since our initial briefing in the Llama Path office, Andrew had expressed his desire to climb Huayna Picchu.  However, only a set number of tickets are dispensed each day for the two starting times, 7 a.m. and 10 a.m., and a 7 a.m. start was obviously impossible.  Thus, he wanted to be at Machu Picchu as early as possible to increase his chances of getting tickets for the 10 a.m. start.  So, in order to be the first people through the gate, Romero suggested we get up 3:15 a.m.

While some groups gathered in the “lodge” to drink beer and celebrate with their new-found friends the successful completion of a difficult trek, we went to be bed early!

Maybe it was the cold, maybe it was the altitude, but I had to get up three times in the night to visit the facilities which were, thank goodness, very close to our campsite.  Brrrr!  No flush toilets here; but there was a large sink with several cold water spigots.  Most facilities lacked any type of sink.

Toilets at Chaquicocha

It felt really good in the dining tent where our cook prepared omelets, toast, fruit, and hot chocolate for breakfast.

Dining, cooking and porter sleeping tent

The early morning light highlighted the snow-covered peak of the Pumasillo massif. 

Pumasillo at Dawn from Chaquicocha

Probably because it was so cold, Yvette and Andrew were more efficient this morning, and we all left together at 7:20 a.m.  This section of the trail was billed as one of the nicest on the trail, and it was.  Much of it was through cloud forest habitat with all kinds of interesting plants and flowers.

This bush had daisy-like flowers.

There wasn’t much light so this blow-up isn’t very clear, but you’ll get the idea.

There were also some great views (and dropoffs) along this section of trail, including this view back towards camp with the ruins of Sayaqmarka up on the rocky spur near the center of the photograph. 

Camp Chaquicocha with Sayaqmarka in Background

As you can see, most of the campsites were empty, and our porters were packed and almost ready to leave.

The tiny specks of red near the toilet building are the Llama Path porters

Our timing was right for the morning light on Sayaqmarka.  From this viewpoint, although far away, one can better appreciate it’s fabulous location and how extensive the complex was.

Sayaqmarka

Here’s another snow-capped peak,

and a view of the trail through the cloud forest with a steep dropoff on the left.  According to one guide book, many of these stones are original.

As a geocacher who loves to find geodetic markers, I was thrilled to find this one along the trail.

Geodetic Marker, Orden C, 107

As we neared the final ascent towards the third pass, we passed through a long tunnel.  Remember, the men who built this had no explosives, no iron tools, just stones for chipping away at the bedrock.

Andrew in the Inca Tunnel

On the third pass (12,073′), we had a rest stop to take in the view.

Note the bush in the foreground.  I couldn’t figure out if this was how the bush itself looked or whether this was an epiphyte like Spanish moss or a lichen.  (In this whole area, it would have been nice to have a guide who was well-versed in botany.)

Not being in a hurry, I had plenty of time to investigate the plants in the area.

Just below the pass we got our first glimpse of Machu Picchu Mountain and a fabulous view down to the Urubamba and Aobamba river valleys.  Machu Picchu Mountain is the lower right-hand corner, just behind the outcropping near where I’m standing. 

Our first glimpse of Machu Picchu Mountain

It has a flag on top.

The Flag on Machu Picchu Mt

Although we hadn’t seen a sole since leaving camp, we were not alone at this viewpoint.

3rd Pass

 I continued my botanical investigations,

while enjoying the view.

 Below the pass are the Phuyupatamarka ruins.  The name means “cloudy place”, but we had a beautiful, clear day.

Phuyupatamarka

We could also see Intipata off in the distance.

Intipata

At Phuyupatamarka, Romero had me point to the flag on Machu Picchu.

Pointing to Machu Picchu's Flag from Phuyupatamarka

Explore the Inca Trail describes the ruins as follows: “The design demonstrates the Inca passion for closely fitting the built environment to the natural contours of the site.  Sinuous curves and serpentine terraces may suggest Gaudi’s 20th-century architecture in Barcelona more than late 15th-century Peru.”

Phuyupatamarca

I thought this building looked more like a shamrock.

Are there shamrocks in Peru?

From below, Phuyupatamarca looks more like a fortress.

Phuyupatamarca from below

From the third pass, it’s all downhill, mostly on steps.  According to the aforementioned guide book there are 1300 to 1500 steps.

Steps down from 3rd pass

We eventually got to a spot with a great view down onto Intipata where potatoes, maize, fruit and sweet potatos were grown for Machu Picchu.

Intipata Agricultural Terraces and Dwellings

To be continued–

A porter woke me up at 5 a.m. with a cup of coca tea.  Breakfast, served at 5:45, consisted of porridge and a pancake with fruit–a heavy dose of carbs.  Well-versed in how to pack up and get going on a camping trip after three weeks on the John Muir Trail, I was ready to start walking a few minutes after 6.  The others were still brushing their teeth and packing when Romero said I could start.  He knew I wasn’t going to break any speed records on the 2900-ft climb ahead of me.  Besides, it was barely light.

The sun may have been up, but not far enough to penetrate the deep valleys. 

Morning Twilight on the Inca Trail

Being by myself, I climbed at a nice steady, but slow pace stopping to take pictures and admire a waterfall and a short stretch of cloud forest.  It was along this stretch that I began to see the signature trademarks of the Inca’s road-building laborers–stone-paving and steps, but alas the guidebook says the original were long ago destroyed by mules’ hooves.  This stretch of trail was reconstructed in the 1990s.

Waterfall along Inca Trail

Inca Trail through some Cloud Forest

Thinking we had passed the last village and knowing trail users’ could not take pack animals beyond a certain point, I was surprised at being overtaken first by two llamas, then a few minutes later by a saddled, but riderless donkey, and eventually by a woman and finally a man. 

A LLama on the Inca Trail

Both the woman and the man appeared to be carrying heavier loads than the llamas.

A Native Woman on the Inca Trail

It was along this stretch of steps that Yvette, Andrew and Romero caught up with me.

Andrew and Yvette; Romero's hidden by the tree on the right

When we exit the cloud forest, the sun still had not made it over the mountain tops.

Peaks near Dead Woman's Pass

After 1 3/4 hours of steady climbing we reached the last camp before Dead Woman’s Pass at Llulluchapampa (12,460′); that’s almost 1,000′ per hour.

Llulluchapampa Camp

We pressed on and after another 45 minutes the highest point on the trail was in sight–Dead Woman’s Pass at 13,779 ft.  The pass gets it’s name from it’s profile which is likened to a supine woman; that’s one of her breasts on the right.

The final approach to Dead Woman's Pass

 It doesn’t matter which way you look at it, the final approach is not easy.

Looking up the final approach

Looking down the final approach

I made it to the top in just over 3 1/2 hours.  Not bad!

It’s a long ways down to the valley.

The Kusichaca River Valley from Dead Woman's Pass

We stayed long enough for a snack and the obligatory photos.  First looking back from whence we came,

On Dead Woman's Pass

and then looking forward.

On Dead Woman's Pass

At this point my knees trembled.  They do not like going downhill.

The Steps Down from Dead Woman's Pass

The young folks just lept from stone to stone, but I took my time zig-zagging and letting my poles absorb the biggest shocks.  Two hours and the loss of 2,000 ft in just 2 km (1.2 mi) later, I arrived at Pacaymayu to find lunch waiting.  (I was too busy negotiating the steps to take pictures.)

Dead Woman's Pass from Pacaymayu (note the cell tower)

Lunch included a salad of lettuce, ham and cheese; asparagus soup; chicken filets; beef with onions and potatoes; and quinoa.  There was no time for a rest this day as we had to make it over another pass before reaching our campsite, which was estimated to be four hours away.  Our porters were packing up as we finished eating and made our toilet stops.  (A real flush toilet at this spot, not one of those squat ones that we found most places.)

Llama Path porters packing gear at Pacaymayu

We were back on the trail by 1 p.m.  As we climbed we could see that some groups were going to spend the night where we had lunch.

Tents at Pacaymayu

The second pass, which had no name, was at 13,123′, or 1,423′ up from Pacaymayu–just under a half of the morning’s climb.

Andrew heading up to 2nd Pass

Did I mention the stunning views when I stopped looking at my feet?

The View while climbing to 2nd Pass

On this climb I had a chance to put the morning’s descent into perspective.  Rarely was it possible to see this much of the trail at one time.

Camp Pacaymayu and Dead Woman's Pass

Just before the 2nd Pass we made a brief stop at Runkuraqay.  This ruin is often referred to as the Egg Hut because of its shape.  Most guide books say it was the watch-tower for a tambo.

The "Egg Hut" at Runkuraqay

From the top of Dead Woman’s Pass to the top of 2nd Pass there were numerous waterfalls up on the mountainsides.  Unfortunately, they don’t show up very well in my photos.

At the top of 2nd Pass, people were taking the opportunity to rest,

Llama Path porter on 2nd Pass

soak up the sun,

Sunbather on 2nd Pass

and admire the view.

Romero, Yvette, and Andrew taking in the view

Me, I adjusted my knee braces and tightened my poles in preparation for another steep descent of about 1,300′.

The way down from 2nd Pass

Although there were a couple of places with huge steps, I found these steps much easier than the ones in the morning.  They were steeper, but more even–more like a staircase in places–making it possible to get a rhythm.

Hikers on the steps down from 2nd Pass

On this hillside we passed through a microclimate where there were flowers blooming.

A Lady-Slipper?

Fifteen minutes later as we circle the mountain, the view opens up and reveals the ruins of Sayaqmarka (11,800′).  Situated like Machu Picchu on a rocky spur, it commands sweeping views.

Sayaqmarka

Andrew and Yvette arrived long before me.

Sayaqmarka (Andress stands in the circular building at left)

The thought of descending the steep steps up to the ruins almost deterred me from going.

The steps up to Sayaqmarka

These ruins have been extensively restored.

At Sayaqmarka

An observatory?

As part of the sweeping views one can see the ruins of the Conchamarka tambo and our path,

Conchamarka (tambo)

as well as our campsite on the other side of the valley.  It was 4:15 p.m. and I had been walking since a little after 6 a.m.  And camp was way over there!

Chaquicocha Campsite

In fact, the trail circled the valley, making it a fairly easy 45 minute stroll to camp.

Tea was waiting, so I waited until morning to take my camp photo.

Camp at Chaquicocha

In addition to the usual popcorn, we had some delicious cheese wonton.  Dinner included a soup, chicken leg with potatoes and rice, and chocolate pudding.  I was too tired to record anything else.