Archive for the ‘Mesa Verde’ Category

Pachacuti’s Country Estate at Pisaq

Tuesday, December 1st, 2009

The prevailing theory seems to be that Pachacuti had Pisac (and Ollantaytambo) built after he defeated the Cuyos (and Tambos) in the Vilcanota (or Sacred) Valley.  They were his private estates, designed to both protect the valley from attack and to provide food and other resources necessary to support his family and descendants. (MacQuarrie, p. 439)

Pisac Terraces

Pisac is huge.  The ruins here are unique in that there are four distinct building areas: P’isaqa, Qanchiracay, Intihuatana, and Q’allaqasa for the elite, agricultural, religious, and military inhabitants of the complex.

Pisac map

I like the following view because it gives the viewer an idea of what the terraces looked like before and after restoration following about 400 years of non-use.Pisac Terraces

Look carefully at the slopes in the background.  It looks as if the terraces extended almost to the peak.  Given all the easily accessible good farmland in the valley, the amount of  land cultivated on the mountainsides during the time of the Incas would appear to be unnecessary unless there were a whole lot of people living here. 

Looking up the hillside from Intihuatana

Not all of the terraces were for farming.  More than 3,000 burial places stud the hillside.

Ransacked burial sites at Pisaq

Ransacked burial sites at Pisaq

And here’s a view from across the valley.

Pisac terraces as seen from across the valley

Each of the “villages” has its own character with the religious sector having the finest architecture and the Intihuatana or Sun Temple having the best of the best.

Pisaq religious sector

Pisaq religious sector

The Intihuatana and other temples
The Intihuatana and other temples

Like the Intihuatana in other locales, it is the building with the curved walls encasing a natural stone outcrop.

Intihuatana or Sun Temple

Intihuatana or Sun Temple

Also note the crude stone building to the right of the Intihuatana in the middle image.  It seems very out of place, but if there is a theory about its purpose and location, I haven’t found it yet.
Rough stone building in religious sector

Rough stone building in religious sector

Compare the workmanship to these buildings.

Temple at Pisaq

The Q’allaqasa or military citadel sits strategically above the confluence,

Q'allaqasa or military sector at Pisac
Q’allaqasa or military sector at Pisac

while the elite lived lower down on the hillside at Pisaqa.

Q'allaqasa or military district of Pisac

Pisaqa

 The peons had the crudest building works, at least as reconstructed.

A rebuilt structure at Qanchiracay

A rebuilt structure at Qanchiracay

Qanchiracay

Qanchiracay

Given the reconstruction and restoration of all but the best walls that have withstood the tests of time, it is hard to know where the reality of the 16th century has been usurped by the imagination of the 20th.  For example, look closely at the steps in the following image.  Rarely did any of the thousands of steps on the Inca Trail look this even or of such uniform height.  Obviously, some changes have made made for visitor safety, but once one begins to question, one doesn’t know where to stop. 

Was this really what it looked like around 1500?

Was this really what it looked like around 1500?

This dilemma on the part of both the caretaker and the visitor is not unique to Incan ruins.  I’ve encountered it time and time again in the American Southwest where the National Park Service (and other custodians of American Indian ruins) struggle to make places like the Cliff Palace at Mesa Verde National Park both safe and true to the past when starting with not much more than a pile of rocks and no written records.

Cliff Palace, Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado

Cliff Palace, Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado