Trails and Treasures

Finally, on day 2 in Delhi, I got to see some of its famous sights.

Our first stop was the Qutb or Qutub complex.  Built on the site of the last Hindu ruler’s citadel by Delhi’s first Muslim ruler, the stones from 27 ancient Hindu and Jain temples were reused in building a mosque, tower, and other buildings. 

 

1) ? 2) Tomb of Iltutmish 3) Iron Pillar 4) Qutb Minar. The rectangular blue structure encompassing the Iron pillar and Qutb Minar is the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque. 5) Alai Gate 6) Tomb of Imanzam 7) Gateway 8) Alai Minar 9) Gateway 10) Major Smith Cupola 11) Chaumukha Gate 12) Canteen 13) Rest house 14) Cycle stand 15) Car park 16) Garhgaj 17) Office 18) Lawn 19) Car park 20) Main gate 21) Mosque 22) Gateway.

At the heart of the complex is the Qutub Minar, a 234-ft tower–the tallest stone tower in India and the world’s tallest brick minaret.  The first Muslim sultan Qutub-ud-din Aibak of Delhi started construction of the tower in 1193, but he only completed the base.  The next three stories were added by his son-in-law and successor, Iltutmish, and the final or 5^th story was added by Firuz Shah Tughluq.  The fluted, red sandstone tower is covered with intricate carvings, some of which are verses from the Koran.  It is considered to be a fine example of Indo-Islamic architecture and is on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qutb_Minar 

 

The Alai Darwaza or Gate was built by the second Khilji Sultan of Delhi, Ala-ud-din Khilji,  in 1311 AD. The domed gateway is decorated with inlaid white marble decorations, inscriptions and latticed stone screens. This is the first building in India to employ Islamic architecture principles in its construction and ornamentation.  Thus, it is the earliest example of true arches and true domes in India. It is considered to be one of the most important buildings built in the Delhi sultanate  period. With its pointed arches and spearhead of fringes, identified as lotus buds, it adds grace to the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque to which it served as an entrance.  The mosque itself is in ruins.

 

One of the curiosities within the complex is the iron pillar.  The 21+ ft pillar was originally erected in Udayagiri at a Vishnu temple around 402 AD.  Iltutmish had the pillar moved to Qutb around 1233 AD.

 

 The tomb of Iltutmish, the second Sultan of Delhi (r. 1211-1236 AD), is also part of the Qutb complex. Built in 1235 AD the  main cenotaph, in white marble, lies on a raised platform in the center of the chamber. The facade is known for its ornate carving, both at the entrance and the interior walls. The decoration of this mausoleum presents a  rich amalgamation of Hindu motives into Islamic architecture, such as bell-and-chain, tassel, lotus, diamond emblems .

 

The tomb of Alauddin Khilji, which dates to 1316 AD, is in a madrasa he had built during his reign.  Before his death he had begun building a second, bigger tower, the Alai Minar, but it never progressed beyond the base layer.

 

The tomb of Imam Muhammad Ali, or Imam Zamin, stands on a raised courtyard, next to the Alai Darwaza. According to an inscription over the southern doorway to the tomb, Imam Zamin came from Turkestan during the reign of Sikandar Lodi (1489-1517). He built this mausoleum during his lifetime and was buried here after his death in 1539 AD. The sandstone structure has a plaster-covered dome rising from an octagonal base; the carved perforated screen walls were common in the Lodi period architecture.

 

As noted earlier, the mosque itself is in ruins.

Because the mosque is in ruins, the visit here felt much like a visit to the ruins of  a European church such as Allerheiligen Kloster in Germany.