Trails and Treasures

Even though some of the temples in Durbar Square were not re-erected after the 1934, there is still plenty to see: Shiva Temple, Shiva Parvati Temple, four Char Dham temples, Vatsala Durga Temple, Pashupatinath Temple, Siddhi Lakshmi Temple, and Fasidega Temple.  And then there a few other monuments like King Bhupatindra Malla’s column, a Taleju bell, and statues of Ugrachandi and Bhairab.  I must have be overwhelmed as I don’t really have that many pictures, and I either missed the much-discussed pornography on Pahsupatinath or my guide steered me in another direction.

King Malla's Column, Taleju Bell, and Vatsala Durga Temple

King Bhupatindra Malla’s column was erected in 1699; the Taleju Bell was erected by King Jaya Ranjit Mall in 1737; and the Indian-style temple with mythical beasts an the sides of the shikhara dates from either 1672 or 1727.

King Malla's Column and Vatsala Durga Temple

King Bhupatindra Malla

Beasts on the shikhara of Vatsala Durga Temple

This "barking bell" was erected in front of the temple in 1721

This statue of Ugrachandi has 18 arms holding a variety of weapons symbolising the multiple aspects of her character.  The killing of a demon with a trident symbolizes the victory of wisdom over ignorance.

Ugrachandi slaying a demon with a trident

The Rameshwar Temple is rather plain compared to the Vatsala Durga

Rameshwar Temple

But it makes a nice planter!

Plant growing from roof of Rameshwar Temple

Carving on Rameshwar Temple

I’m not sure which temple this is, but someone else labelled it “Krishna Temple.”

Krishna Temple

The following view is from the opposite (western) end of Durbar Square.  The Vatsala Durga Temple is on the left with the pagoda-roofed Chyasilin Mandap in the middle and the base of the Siddhi Lakshmi Temple in the right foreground.

Western end of Durbar Square, Bhaktapur

The 17th-century Siddhi Lakshmi Temple or Stone Temple features pairs of guardians on the steps: a man and a woman leading a child and a LARGE dog, horses, rhinos, human-faced lions, and camels.

Steps of the Siddhi Lakshmi Temple

One set of attendants

The Chyasilin Mandap  was created in 1990 used leftover parts from a temple destroyed in the 1934 earthquake.

It's not a temple and it's not old

The Fasidega Temple is singularly unexciting architecturally, but it makes a good landmark.

Fasidega Temple

Elephants, lions and cows guard the Fasidega Temple

This lion is one of a pair that no longer have a temple to guard.

A guardian without anything to guard

Bhaktapur is the best preserved of the three medieval city-states in the Kathmandu Valley.  Of the three Malla kingdoms, Bhaktapur became the most powerful.  However, following the conquest and consolidation of the three kingdoms by Prithvi Narayan Shah in 1768, Kathmandu became the capital, leaving Bhaktapur to become a sleepy rural town without the population pressures of the capital. 

Significant restoration work has been financed by the German government over the last decade; it doesn’t feel at all derelict and shabby like parts of Patan.

There’s even a city gate still standing.

Looking through the Lasku Dhoka (City Gate) into Durbar Square

Wood carving on the Lasku Dhoka

Bhaktapur’s Durbar Square has a more open feel than Patan’s since some of the temples destroyed in the 1934 earthquake were not rebuilt.

Bhaktapur's Durbar Square from the City Gate

Durbar Square, Bhaktapur

The Royal Palace, Taleju Bell, and several temples in Durbar Square

Taleju Bell and Vatsala Durga Temple

Like at Patan, part of the palace has been converted into a museum.  In this case, the entryway is guarded by a pair of huge stone lions.

Entrance to the National Art Gallery

Guardian Lion

Bhaktapur’s royal palace dates from the 12th century, although the oldest part still standing only dates from the 14th.  The “55-window” Tripura palace was build by Jitamitra and his son Bhupatindra Malla.  The Sun Dhoka or Golden Gate to the palace was built in 1754 by Jaya Ranjit Malla.

Sun Dhoka

The torana features a garuda wrestling with supernatural serpents and the goddess Taleju Bhawani

Ironwork atop the Sun Dhoka, Bhakatapur

55-Window Palace

Just one of many

The main courtyard with its Taleju Temple is inaccessible to non-Hindus, but one can meander to a back corner of the palace to a water tank used for ritual immersion of the idol of Taleju–the Naga Pokhari.

Naga Pokhari

The makara is eating a goat while other monsters watch

Just one of the cobras in and around the pool

There’s more to Patan’s Durbar Square than just the palace and numerous temples.  Everywhere one takes the time to look, there’s a visually interesting carving or sculpture.  Unfortunately, without knowing more about the deities and rituals of Hinduism, I can just present them–not explain them.

For example, what are these figures?  And why are they red?

I can at least recognize these animals.

One of these elephants is crushing a man beneath its foot

Makaras or mythical crocodiles were a favorite of craftsmen creating water spigots.

Would you like a drink?

Women still line up to fill their water containers at the Manga Hiti.

According to legend, as long as the bird remains atop the cobra over King Yoganarendra Malla’s head, the king may still return to his palace.

King Yoganarendra Malla's Statue

Here are a couple more roof strut figures.

There are bells in several of the above photos; they are everywhere.  This one was erected by King Vishnu Malla in 1736 for use by petitioners who wanted him to listen to their grievances.

Taleju Bell

The following “bells” are located an rooftops.

When the ruler of the entire Kathmandu Valley, Yaksha Malla, died in 1482, the valley was split by his sons into three rival kingdoms–Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur.  The rivalry continued until Prithvi Narayan Shah conquered and unified the valley in 1768. 

Each king built his own royal palace, and over the centuries numerous monuments and temples were added to the complexes.  Collectively referred to as Durbar Square, the end result in Patan is one of the finest collection of temples and palaces in all of Nepal.  

Patan's Durbar Square with the Royal Palace on the right and Hari Shankar Temple on left

Patan’s Royal Palace dates from the 14^thcentury with extensive additions and renovations over the centuries.  Most of the complex was constructed during the reigns of King Siddhinarasimha Malla and his son Srinivasa.  A fire destroyed parts of the palace in 1662, but subsequently the palace was severely damaged in 1768 by the conquering Prithi Narayana Shah, who ruled from Kathmandu.  Some parts of the complex were used as government offices, but it was generally neglected with further damage caused by the 1934 earthquake. 

Patan's Royal Palace has three temples with Taleju being the largest

Points of architectural interest include the overhanging eaves; hand carved woodwork around the windows, doors and cornices; and delicate wooden screens.

Door of Patan Royal Palace

Wood carving

Window detail of Patan Royal Palace

Carving on above window

The palace has three courtyards–Keshav Narayan Chowk (1734), Mul Chowk (1666), and Sudari Chowk (1647) —and three temples—Bidya, Taleju Bhawani, and Degutalle (a principal Tantric place of worship).  Here’s a model of the palace.

Patan Durbar Square model

The Bhairab gate to the central courtyard, Mul Chowk, is flanked by two stone lions

Lion at Bhairab gateway to Mul Chowk

and a mural of Shiva in his wrathful incarnation as Bhairab.

Shiva as Bhairab

Buffalo gut ropes hang over the door.

Buffalo gut ropes over Bhairab gateway

The courtyard was dedicated to the goddess Durga, but  the Bidya Mandir in the middle of the courtyard was erected for Mantraju.

Bidya Temple in Mul Chowk

Unfortunately the scaffolding made it difficult to see some of the wall carvings, but some of the walls were free of encumbrances.

Inside the Mul Chowk

Roof struts with carvings of Bhairabs

Bhairab minus a couple of arms

This one is missing a different set

The original Taleju Temple was built in 1667.  The current temple was reconstructed after the 1934 earthquake, but looks like it could use some TLC.

Taleju Temple from Mul chowk

The buildings surrounding the newest courtyard, the Keshav Narayan Chowk, are now a museum.  The gateway to this courtyard is called the Golden Gate (Sun Dhoka).  Above the doorway is a golden torana featuring Shiva, Parvati, Ganesh and Kumar.

Golden torana featuring Shiva, Parvati, Ganesh and Kumar

The upper story window, which was used by the king to make public appearances, is of gold foil wrapped around a timber frame. 

The king's golden window

This temple sits on the low side of the hill near the road

Stupas near car park

Buddha in stupa niche

Another style

There also are numerous small shrines called chaitya.

"A garden of ancient chaityas"

Chaityas line the walkways

They exhibit a wide variety of forms

More chaityas

Two shikhara-style temples to Anantapura and Pratapura were built in the 17th century.

A shikhara

Lighting a butter lamp

Not all the shrines are Buddhist.  This Hindu temple is dedicated to Hariti, the goddess of smallpox and children.

Hariti Temple

While the stupa at Bodhnath is the most sacred site in Kathmandu for Tibetan Buddhists, Swayambhunath is the favorite of the Newari Buddhists.  Supposedly, this stupa is the one used as a pattern for the stupa at Chendebji in Bhutan.  Pilgrims approach the hilltop stupa via a flight of 365 stairs.  Tourists like me use the car park near the top of the hill.

Stairway to Swayambhunath Stupa

The oldest inscription on the many temples and monuments on the hilltop is from AD460, but most historians believe the sacredness of the site dates much earlier.  The stupa was undergoing a major restoration when I was there in March, 2010.

The Swayambhunath stupa towers over the other temples on the hilltop

Note the man on the left side of the dome

Note the man on the left side of the dome in the above picture.  He’s creating the gold petal outlines on the dome.

Painting the stupa dome's golden leaves

The thirteen gold-covered rings that make up the pinnacle represent the thirteen stages that man must pass through to achieve nirvana.

The thirteen stages to nirvana

And, like at all Buddhist stupas, four pairs of eyes are watching you.

Buddha's eyes

From one of the most sacred Buddhist sites in Nepal we headed for Pashupatinath, Nepal’s most important Hindu temple, which is dedicated to Shiva. 

Main Gate to Pashupatinath Temple

Pashupatinath from other side of Bagmati River

Designated a World Heritage Site, the 24m-high pagoda-roofed temple itself is closed to non-Hindus.  There is historical evidence that a temple to Shiva existed at this site in 879 AD.  The present temple dates from 1697. 

Pagoda-style gilded rooftops of Pashupatinath

 Just inside the gate it’s possible to catch a view of a giant brass statue of Shiva’s bull Nandi.

Shiva's Bull Nandi

The temple is part of a large complex of temples, ashrams, images and inscriptions raised over the centuries along the banks of the sacred Bagmati river.  People come here to take ritual baths.

Want to bathe amid the garbage?

One former temple complex, the Panch Deval, is now a home for destitute old people.

Rooftops of the Panch Deval (Five Temples)

One of the oldest temples is this one.

Temple to Vasuki, King of Nagas

This one’s fairly new.

Across the river from the Pashupatinath Temple, there is a series of stone terraces with numerous small Shiva shrines. 

Shiva Temples

These one-room temples are often used as lodgings by wandering sadhus (wandering ascetics) and each contains a central Shiva lingam. 

Looking through a series of Shiva Temples. Note the sleeping mat.

Despite the varying styles, all have a mask of Bhairab, Shiva’s fearsome incarnation, on the south wall and a Nandi statue and animal-head water spout on the north.

Carving on Shiva Temple

Smaller carvings on a Shiva temple

 Some of the buildings have very elaborate architectural details.

Carving over a doorway

Part of a door

The top panel of the above door

Lest one get the impression that everything here is worthy of the photographer’s attention, consider these views.

Southeast of the temple

Old Shiva temples on the way from the parking lot