Archive for September, 2010

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek, Day 11–Ghorepani to Ulleri

Thursday, September 2nd, 2010

There are routes to the sanctuary other than through Ghorepani, but most trekkers come this way for the view from nearby Poon Hill (10,476′) at sunrise.  It takes about an hour to make the ascent of 1500′; we left just before six.  I’d guess that 100+ trekkers made the pilgrimage that day.  It was crowded.

Poon Hill

Unfortunately, it was too cloudy and hazy for great pictures, but here are the best of the lot.

Machhapuchhare just before sunrise

Dhaulagiri at sunrise

Sunrise from Poon Hill

Annapurna South and Machhapuchhare at sunrise from Poon Hill

On the way back to the lodge for breakfast, I spied a tall tree with yellow flowers–the only one I saw.

After breakfast, we began the descent in earnest.  From Ghorepani to Ulleria involved a descent of over 2200 feet.

The steps outside the hotel

The steps through town

The Medical Outpost & The steps at the edge of town

More steps

There were, of course, more rhododendrons, but I also happened upon some orchids.

Orchids

As we followed a stream, there were waterfalls large and small.

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We encountered a pack train of mules laden with food supplies for the lodges.

Would you like chicken for dinner?

Check-out the path, more steps

The driver wore crocs!

Many of the men from these villages serve in Gurkha regiments of the British Army overseas.

I really have to concentrate on my feet going down hill, so I don’t see much of my surroundings unless I stop.  That coupled with the haze and low-hanging clouds which obscured the mountain peaks meant I took no mountain pictures the entire day after leaving the top of Poon Hill.

We stopped in Banthanti (7,546′) for lunch around 11:30. 

My porter in Banthanti

It took less than an hour to reach Ulleri (6791′).  As this was our stopping point, I had lots of time to take pictures.

Sawing wood

Thatch-roofed building

How do you like the steps to the woodpile?

I stayed at the Mira or Meera Guest House.

Mira Guesthouse, Ulleri

The terrace of the Mira Guesthouse in Ulleri

The Mira's dining room

The Mira's nasturtiums

The Mira's toilet

I had a great corner room here that would have provided fantastic views if it hadn’t been engulfed in clouds.  It also had a bathroom, a most interesting one.

The shower

The toilet

From my window I could look down at the activity at the spigot.

An interesting way to scrub your clothes

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek, Day 10–Banthanti to Ghorepani

Wednesday, September 1st, 2010

Another short day of walking through the rhododendrons.  On the other hand, most of the day was spent gaining altitude.  Banthanti was at 8,268′, Ghorepani at 9,022′, and in between was a pass at 9800′.

Since the Hungry Eye sat at the base of a cliff, I have no pictures of the sunrise on the mountains.

Rhododendrons at first light

Starting at the base of a cliff, the trail headed up through a glen with numerous little waterfalls.

Waterfall near Banthanti

We passed a point where a child died, but I cannot find any further information than what was on the sign.  This was the only place along the entire trail that I saw something like this.

Saranga Riv, son of trekking guide Ganga Bahadur Ghale and Jacqueline Doens

Prayer flags for Saranga Riv Ghale

There were more primroses

and some rare pine trees near Deurali and the top of the pass.

Once we crossed the pass, the trail undulated generally downward along a ridge providing spectacular views of the mountains.

Annapurna South through the rhododendrons

These rhododendron were much reder than most

Annapurna South

We were approaching civilization.

Ghorepani Medical Post, 1 hr

Up to this point, we had seen few large groups of trekkers.  But from here on down to the road, we saw many.  It was the end of March and clearly a lot of college students from all over the world were on holiday.  There were also groups of older folks.

A group heading up to the Sanctuary

Our mountain views now included Dhaulagiri, the world’s 7th highest mountain,

Dhaulagiri

and Machhapuchhare was disappearing behind the mountains we’d crossed.

Machhapuchhare is disappearing from sight

A rest stop

The rhododendron were mostly in various shades of pink

Dhaulagiri

We arrived in Ghorepani before lunch time and checked into the Nice View Lodge in the upper part of town.

Nice Viewpoint Lodge, Ghorepani

Being back in “civilization”, I had my own bathroom–the nicest I had on the trek.

Shower and sink

A western toilet!

But somehow, they forgot about the ceiling.

Bathroom ceiling

The lodge had a huge dining area with fantastic views,

View from Nice Viewpoint

and it served chicken!

When we’d passed through the lower town, I had spied an internet sign, so after lunch and a shower, I went hunting for it. 

"Downtown" Ghorepani

The "central square"

Unfortunately, the service was down.  I gathered that the land-line telephone service was rather spotty, but there also seemed to be problems with the electricity.  I left my camera battery charging for hours and the light never turned green.