Today’s the toughest day. We’ll start at 8,550′ and end at something over 12,000′. (Depending on the source, MBC is at anywhere from 12,136′ to 12, 477′.) Since I’ve trekked to higher places both in California and Colorado, the altitude shouldn’t be a problem.
At the Tip Top in Dovan, I had to put pillows in the window which had no glass in order to cut the draft. The rock floor meant it took a while to get my feet warm even though I had a heavy cover over my sleeping bag. When I got up in the morning, it was 40°–a lot warmer than the 18 on a February night in Joshua Tree NP.
Sunrise on Machhapuchhare from Dovan
The day in brief:
Dovan, 8,550’ OR 8218’, 7:23a
Himalayan Hotel 9514’ or 9318’ OR 10,1168’ OR 9580’, ar 9:11, lv 9:30
Deurali 10,597’ OR 10,398’, ar 11:20, lv 12:08
Machhapuchhare Base Camp 12,477’ or 12,139’ or 12,136’, ar abt 3
Dovan to MBC
The posted signboard times were:
Dovan to Himalaya 2 hr
Himalaya to Deurali, 1 ½ hr
Deurali to MBC 2 hr
At Doran the trail is high above the river with thick stands of bamboo blocking the view of the rushing river and waterfalls on the other side of the river.
The trail just outside of Dovan
Bamboo and rhododendron rainforest
Primroses, a sign of spring
The river was gaining elevation faster than we were.
The Modi Khola with the Himalaya Guest House in the distance
Approaching the Himalaya Guest House
After crossing a landslide and another avalanche track, we arrived at the Himalayan Hotel where we stopped for a cup of tea.
Boulders in the Modi Khola
Is that Annapurna III peeking out behind Machhapuchhare?
The forest disappeared opening up views of the many waterfalls.
One of many waterfalls (and avalanche chutes) in the area
Deurali is still about a 1/2 hour away at this point. See those blue roofs in the distance? They look so near, but there are lots of rocks between here and there.
Approaching Deurali
The first small patch of ice to be crossed
The path is narrow
Another waterfall
Waterfalls and rocks
A water crossing without a bridge
In Deurali we stopped for lunch at the Panorama Guest House.
Panorama Guest House in Deurali
From Deurali, we followed the flank of the river to a point where the trail crossed the river to avoid an area heavily prone to avalanches.
The raging Modi Khola
Crossing the river involved some rock-hopping and a small bridge that could be moved as necessary.
Bridge to the east side of the Modi Khola
About this time the clouds descended.
The bridge back over the Modi Khola
Back on the west side of the river, we soon left its banks to climb up onto a terrace above the river.
We're going to cross the snow and ice to work our way up the side valley
Another ice field to be crossed
It’s supposedly “a gentle climb to reach Macchapuchre Base Camp” from here, BUT–
Because it was late spring, the surface of the ice had been constantly melting and then refreezing over night. Where no one had tread, it was hard and slick. Where people had tread, it was slushy and slippery. Most people’s strides were longer than mine, meaning it was difficult to get traction. Moreover, finding holes for my poles required careful placement rather than just the usual; otherwise, they would just go sliding. I probably should have stopped to remove the rubber tips, but by the time I figured that out, it was too late. Moreover, it had started to precipitate, a combination of rain, sleet and snow.
I packed my camera away in a dry bag, so I have no more pictures for the day. Besides, it was so foggy when we arrived at MBC, I couldn’t see more than 100′ or so.
Because we were behind most arrivals for the night, Deb had to try several guesthouses before he found one with a single room—the Gurung Cooperative. There was no electricity in the room.
It was cold. A put on all my layers of clothing to sit in the great room where they finally turned on the propane heater under the table at 5 p.m. At 5 MBC was totally socked in; you couldn’t see the next guesthouse. By 6, it was clear.