Sunrise on Annapurna South from Landruk
Across the river from Landruk is the village of Ghandruk.
Ghandruk from Landruk
We started in Landruk at 5,314’ at 7:45a and ended at Chomrong (7,119’) at 2:20p, but in the middle we descended as low as 4,400’. One signboard said it was 5 hrs; some itineraries say 6.
This shot gives you an idea of just how massive Annapurna South is. To get to Macchapucchare Base Camp, we have to walk up the valley and around Hiunchuli which is just out of range to the right.
The Modi Khola valley leading to Annapurna South
Chhomrung is the highest permanent Gurung settlement in the valley. It might be the village you can just make out on the ridge line just to the left of the denter of the photo above which I’ve cropped to make the picture below.
Is this Chomrong?
From Landruk the trail heads north along the eastern side of the Modi Khola through terraced rice fields to Himalpani. Not far from Landruk we cross a stream on a not-so-safe-looking bridge.
Along the way to Himalpani we pass a couple of waterfalls
Waterfall between Landruk and Himalpani
and a rock-strewn stream.
At Himalpani Lodge, we crossed the river (4,396’),
The Modi Khola at Himalpani
The Bridge over the Modi Khola
heading up
Up, up we go
to New Bridge (Himal Qu) where there was another bridge over the Kimrong Khola.
Crossing the Kimrong Khola
There were some huge boulders in this river; it was quite scenic.
Kimrong Khola
From here the trail started up in earnest.
We reached Jhinu Danda (1780m) in time for lunch (11:45-12:30) with a view.
Paths and Steps among the Terraces
At one of the houses we passed I saw a woman weaving with a backstrap loom.
And there were more farmers plowing.
It wasn’t far distance-wise to Chomrong, but it was up, and it was extremely hot on the exposed trail. The trekking guidebook says its 2-3 hours up from New Bridge to Chomrong. Do it in the morning, not the afternoon. Note the black clouds gathering in the background below. The locals take rest stops, but they don’t drink or eat.
Chomrong is finally in sight
It's been a long way up
When I got to the Kalpana Guest House, I was severely dehydrated. I had a plate of French fries, tea, and a coke before going to my room. Within an hour the sky was all black, and it started to hail pellets that varied in size, but most were about the size of mothballs, some closer to golf balls. The storm only last 10-15 minutes, but it was a noisy 15 minutes since many of the roofs were metal.
Greens drying on a roof before the storm
Hail!
My room at the Kalpana Guest House had a fantastic view, and the menu included a special treat–grilled chicken, which was served with fried potatoes and vegetables. A real meal! They probably grew their own chickens and killed them as needed, as I saw feathers in the yard.