Zhangbi (Shangbi, Jangbi) to Kudra: 8.7 mi (13-14.5 km), about 6 hrs; couple of steep climbs/descents
We left Jangbi at 7:30a; it was cloudy.
Marijuana along trail
We headed down and stopped after an hour at a chorten.
Chorten along trail below Jangbi
Before we left this resting place, the cook and Pelden did some pack readjustments on the ponies while the local guide watched.
Pack readjustment
It was the first day of March and I expected to see wildflowers in this temperate climate. But alas, there were few to be seen, so this was a rare find.
For the most part, the forest consisted of broadleaf trees,
but occasionally there was a small grove of chir pine.
Then it was down some more along a stream
before crossing a bridge (10am) to start up again.
Before crossing the bridge we passed along a rocky cliff face.
The sure-footed, barefoot villagers have used these trails for centuries, but they do not resemble our well-groomed trails.
After climbing for about an hour we reached some fields. The building was not a house, at least not one used year-round.
After another 15 minutes of climbing we found the porters taking a rest. Many of the porters were women. As to why some things were transported on ponies and others were carried on people’s backs, I don’t know.
There was one more final push towards the top.
Well, it really wasn’t the TOP, but soon we began to descend along the cliff face.
Guru Rinpoche passed this way when he traveled from Nabji to Bumthang, and he left imprints of his footsteps, dagger and phallus in the rocks. But all Pelden ever pointed out was Guru Rinpoche’s foothold.
As the trail continued its route around and out of the ravine, there was a good view of the trail along the cliff face.
Cliff face with Guru Rinpoche's foothold
Just before we stopped for lunch around 12:15-12:30, we saw two black-faced langurs.
Not long after lunch it started to rain, so I have no more pictures for the day.
It was very hot and HUMID walking in the dense forest with a poncho on. By the time we reached camp 1 1/2 hours later at about 2:45, I was as wet inside as out.
At Kudra (1500m), they pitched my tent under the thatched pavilion roof. I at least had lots of space to spread out my stuff to dry, which of course it didn’t as it rained most of the night.
I had popcorn(!) with my tea, but no meat with my remaining meals since there was a month-long Buddhist prohibition against meat.
The porters who had carried our baggage to this point began their trip home to Jangbi at 3:30. It had taken me 7 hours with several stops to get here, but it had taken them less and they were returning with empty backs.
Like at Jangbi, I had visitors in Kudra even though only three households lived there. A mother and son, along with a woman neighbor who lived 15-20 minutes away, brought me red-boiled eggs and two bottles of brew.