Nabji Trail Map
Within the boundaries of Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park, the Nabji Trail uses pathways long traversed by the villagers living in Jangbi (Zhangbi, Shangbi), Kudra (Kubra, Kuda), Nabji, Korphu, and Nyimshong (Nimshong). The trail opened in November, 2006, and is the first community-based ecotourism project in Bhutan. The villagers manage the trail and provide services for trekkers, including camping sites, porters, ponies, and guides.
Trailhead for Nabji Trail
Day 1: Tongtonphey to Zhangbi (Jangbi, 4560’); 3-4 hrs.; 5mi/8km; alt. gain 3116’; alt. loss 1968’
Tongtonphey to Jangbi map; note the zigzags in the road and in the trail
The local guide, Pelden and I left the trailhead at Tongtongfey (3,537’ or 3,280’) around 10:30 a.m. The cook, his assistant, the porters and the ponies with their drivers followed later, giving us time to make the long 1800′ descent to the suspension bridge over the Mangde Chhu (11:10a).
Crossing the Magde Chhu
Note that for trekking, Pelden wore western-style clothes. We met quite a few people on the descent and for a while after we crossed the bridge. There were houses scattered here and there on some of the mountainsides.
Scattered homes on the mountainsides
It was hot and dusty with little shade for the first hour or so of walking, but we eventually reached the forest.
Local guide leading the way through the forest
Note that the local guide was barefoot, as were some of the porters. The path climbed gradually for a short while, but eventually we began to climb in earnest. We stopped several times as we caught up with the porters, et. al. Around 12:30 p.m., we stopped for lunch at a place where the trail was reasonably level and there were a few rocks to sit on.
The local guide and cook's assistant at lunch spot
The food for lunch on the trail was no different than in a hotel. There was rice and a selection of four or five dishes that were carried in metal pans that fit in the large grey thermos by the cook’s assistant’s right knee. And there was tea. They also gave me a juice box first thing when I stopped. Nobody but me carried water.
The rocky trail up to Jangbi
After lunch the trail climbed steeply to Jangbi, which we reached around 2 p.m. The campsite was very nicely situated with a view over the Mangde Chhu valley.
- Camping spot at Jangbi
I was served tea in front of my tent with a view. The porters had brought a canvas folding chair for me to sit on.
- My tent at Jangbi
Jangbi
Zhangbi is a Monpas village with a community school. The Monpas are thought to be the first settlers in Bhutan. According to one source, there are only 42 households with just over 250 Monpas left in region. For more on the Monpas, see this scholarly article.
A house at Jangbi
I think the green strips in the following photo are bamboo.
Bamboo drying on fence
The village-provided campsite included a cookhouse with a kitchen-area and a sleeping area for the cook, his assistant, and the trekkers’ guide.
Cookhouse at Jangbi
Note the solar panels which provided enough electricity for recharging Pelden’s cellphone and my camera battery, along with a single light bulb. Next to the cookhouse was a similarly constructed latrine.
After dinner which was served on a tray table, six local women came to visit, bringing a bowl of oranges and sugar cane, as well as three bottles of their home brew. With a little persuasion they drank some of the liquor. Since neither Pelden or I drank the stuff, I’m not sure what happened to the rest.