Archive for April, 2010

A Very Brief Timeline for Delhi and Agra

Friday, April 16th, 2010

With no real background in Indian history before the British took control, I found it difficult to put my visits to various historical monuments into a timeline.  So here’s a brief timeline for the relevant period–

1193           Qutb-al-Din Aybak (a Ghurid from central Afghanistan) captured Delhi

1206           Aybak declared his independence & began Delhi sultanate (1206-1526)

1290           Khalji dynasty replaced Slave dynasty

1398-99      Timur invaded India & sacked Delhi

1451           The Lodis, an Afghan dynasty, gained control of Delhi

1501           Sultan Sikandar Lodhi (r. 1489-1517) founded the city of Agra

1526           Babur, a descendant of Timur raised in Uzbekistan, defeated Lodi sultan in battle of Panipat; beginning of Mogul rule

1540           Humayun, Babur’s son, defeated by Shir Shah Sur leading Aghan federation troops

1555           Humayun regained control of Delhi & Agra

1556           Akbar, aged 13 or 14, ascended throne after accidental death of his father Humayun; (1556-1605)

1560           Akbar abolished slavery

1569           Akbar began building a new royal capital at Fatihpur Sikri

1585           Akbar abandoned Fatihpur Sikri and moved capital to Lahore

1599           Akbar moved capital back to Agra

1605           Jahangir ascended throne

1612           British East India Company set up first factory

1627           Shah Jahan began rule

1628           Nur Jahan (Jahangir’s wife) erected mausoleum at Agra for her parents; noted for its first extensive use of semiprecious inlaid stone in Mogul architecture

1631           Shah Jahan’s wife Mumtaz Mahal died in childbirth (#14, aged 38); he began building tomb (Taj Mahal)

1639-48      Shah Jahan built a new court at Delhi (the Red Fort)

1653           Taj Mahal completed

1658           Aurangzeb imprisoned his father and ascended throne

1707           death of Aurangzeb; succession of rulers weakened empire

1739           Iranian Nadir Shah sacked Delhi, taking Peacock Throne which was then broken up

1757           end of Mogul rule

A Lotus Blossom Built of Concrete

Wednesday, April 14th, 2010

From the first mosque built in India, we went to a far more modern temple—one built by members of the Bahá’i faith.  Familiarly called the Lotus Temple because it resembles a half-opened lotus blossom with three sets of petals, the temple was completed in 1986 and received numerous architectural design awards. 

Bahá’i House of Worship in Delhi

Bahá’i House of Worship in Delhi

Lotus Temple

Lotus Temple

In India, the lotus is a sacred flower, and the lotus blossom visage begins when you enter the grounds.  The temple is surrounded by nine pools representing leaves, and the entire site has been landscaped to evoke peace and serenity. 

 

A Lotus Leaf and Petal

A Lotus Leaf and Petal

Designed by Fariborz Sahba, an Iranian architect who now lives in Canada, the temple has the features of all Bahá’i houses of worship—nine sides, no pictures or imagery, and no altar or pulpit.  The interior is as sleek and modern as the exterior.  The central hall, which reaches a height of more than 120 feet, can seat 2,500 people.  About 4 million people visit each year.  (The following photo is from the internet; photography is not permitted.)

Interior view

Interior view

After removing your shoes, you silently enter the central hall, find a seat, and do whatever you would normally do upon entering your own house of worship.  The room is lit with diffused light; a quiet, peaceful place for meditation and prayer.

It is hard to imagine two temples as diametrically different as the Swaminarayan Akshardham and the Lotus Temple.

Lotus blossom

Architectural Fusion at Qutb

Wednesday, April 14th, 2010

As noted in my last post, the first mosque built by the first Muslim sultan of Delhi recycled much of the stonework used in the Hindu and Jain temples that formerly stood on the site.  Unlike the Spanish who were on a mission in Peru to convert everyone to Catholicism and wipe out any trace of heathen practices, including Inca temples, Qutub-ud-din Aibak and his Muslim successors were far more practical.  They needed the tribute paid by the Hindu elites and the manpower of the populace.  They were far more accommodating of their subjects’ religions than the Spanish Catholics.  And, unlike the Spanish who lacked the skills to reuse the huge, meticulously-sized stones of the temples they destroyed, Aibak’s architects and engineers were more skilled than those of their new subjects.

Arcade of Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque

Arcade of Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque

They developed an amalgam of features from both cultures architectural styles.  The following columns reflect the Muslim tradition of avoiding the use of “pictures” in religious buildings.

Arcade column detail

Arcade column detail

But these columns were clearly recycled from a culture that had no such restrictions.

Recyled Hindu columns

Recyled Hindu columns

They also figured out how to use these columns in different ways.

Non-arcade columns

Non-arcade columns

In my previous post, I gave examples of stone screening and the use of decorative calligraphy.  Here are some additional examples of the fine stone carvings created for this mosque–probably by the stone carvers who had created the Hindu columns.

Decorative stone carvings

Decorative stone carvings

A mix of calligraphy and a vine-based motif

A mix of calligraphy and a vine-based motif

India’s Tallest Tower

Tuesday, April 13th, 2010

Finally, on day 2 in Delhi, I got to see some of its famous sights.

Our first stop was the Qutb or Qutub complex.  Built on the site of the last Hindu ruler’s citadel by Delhi’s first Muslim ruler, the stones from 27 ancient Hindu and Jain temples were reused in building a mosque, tower, and other buildings. 

 

Map of Qutub (Qub) complex

Map of Qutub (Qub) complex

1) ? 2) Tomb of Iltutmish 3) Iron Pillar 4) Qutb Minar. The rectangular blue structure encompassing the Iron pillar and Qutb Minar is the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque. 5) Alai Gate 6) Tomb of Imanzam 7) Gateway 8) Alai Minar 9) Gateway 10) Major Smith Cupola 11) Chaumukha Gate 12) Canteen 13) Rest house 14) Cycle stand 15) Car park 16) Garhgaj 17) Office 18) Lawn 19) Car park 20) Main gate 21) Mosque 22) Gateway.

At the heart of the complex is the Qutub Minar, a 234-ft tower–the tallest stone tower in India and the world’s tallest brick minaret.  The first Muslim sultan Qutub-ud-din Aibak of Delhi started construction of the tower in 1193, but he only completed the base.  The next three stories were added by his son-in-law and successor, Iltutmish, and the final or 5th story was added by Firuz Shah Tughluq.  The fluted, red sandstone tower is covered with intricate carvings, some of which are verses from the Koran.  It is considered to be a fine example of Indo-Islamic architecture and is on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qutb_Minar 

 

Looking towards the top of Qutub Minar

Looking towards the top of Qutub Minar

The base of Qutub Minar

The base of Qutub Minar

The Alai Darwaza or Gate was built by the second Khilji Sultan of Delhi, Ala-ud-din Khilji,  in 1311 AD. The domed gateway is decorated with inlaid white marble decorations, inscriptions and latticed stone screens. This is the first building in India to employ Islamic architecture principles in its construction and ornamentation.  Thus, it is the earliest example of true arches and true domes in India. It is considered to be one of the most important buildings built in the Delhi sultanate  period. With its pointed arches and spearhead of fringes, identified as lotus buds, it adds grace to the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque to which it served as an entrance.  The mosque itself is in ruins.

 

Alai Gate with Qutb Minar in background

Alai Gate with Qutb Minar in background

Decorative Details of Alai Gate

Decorative Details of Alai Gate

One of the curiosities within the complex is the iron pillar.  The 21+ ft pillar was originally erected in Udayagiri at a Vishnu temple around 402 AD.  Iltutmish had the pillar moved to Qutb around 1233 AD.

 

Iron pillar at Qutb

Iron pillar at Qutb

 The tomb of Iltutmish, the second Sultan of Delhi (r. 1211-1236 AD), is also part of the Qutb complex. Built in 1235 AD the  main cenotaph, in white marble, lies on a raised platform in the center of the chamber. The facade is known for its ornate carving, both at the entrance and the interior walls. The decoration of this mausoleum presents a  rich amalgamation of Hindu motives into Islamic architecture, such as bell-and-chain, tassel, lotus, diamond emblems .

 

Tomb of Iltutmish

Tomb of Iltutmish

Stone Carving at Qutb

Stone Carving at Qutb

The tomb of Alauddin Khilji, which dates to 1316 AD, is in a madrasa he had built during his reign.  Before his death he had begun building a second, bigger tower, the Alai Minar, but it never progressed beyond the base layer.

 

Khalji's Madrasa

Khalji's Madrasa

Alai Mindar

Alai Mindar

The tomb of Imam Muhammad Ali, or Imam Zamin, stands on a raised courtyard, next to the Alai Darwaza. According to an inscription over the southern doorway to the tomb, Imam Zamin came from Turkestan during the reign of Sikandar Lodi (1489-1517). He built this mausoleum during his lifetime and was buried here after his death in 1539 AD. The sandstone structure has a plaster-covered dome rising from an octagonal base; the carved perforated screen walls were common in the Lodi period architecture.

 

Stone screening

Stone screening

As noted earlier, the mosque itself is in ruins.

Ruins of Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque

Ruins of Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque

Because the mosque is in ruins, the visit here felt much like a visit to the ruins of  a European church such as Allerheiligen Kloster in Germany.

Allerheiligen Kloster on the Schwarzwalk Hochstrasse

Allerheiligen Kloster on the Schwarzwald Hochstrasse

Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque

Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque

Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque

Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque

Disney in Delhi

Tuesday, April 13th, 2010

The first stop on my first sightseeing tour of Delhi was the Swaminarayan Akshardham Temple which opened to the public in November 2005.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Akshardham_(Delhi)

 

Swaminarayan Akshardham in the smog

Swaminarayan Akshardham in the smog

My visit to the temple did not begin well.  The guide told me that cameras were not allowed, so I left mine in the car.  He didn’t tell me that I couldn’t get in with a battery and a piece of hard candy in my pocket. 

 In India (and Nepal), women and men go through security in separate lines.  Forced to retreat, I waited almost 45 minutes for my guide to come looking for me.  He was young and not too swift.  I finally got in after he went and checked my battery & Werthers.  The visit took 3 hours.

 Built of Rajasthani pink sandstone and Italian white Carrara marble, the temple was built without steel over a period of five years by artisans and some 11,000 volunteers, who presumably are followers of the teachings of Bhagwan Swami Narayan and his current successor Swami Maharaj.  The temple contains 234 ornately carved pillars, 9 ornate domes, 20 quadrangled shikhars, a spectacular Gajendra Pith (plinth of 148 stone elephants) and 20,000 carved figures.

 The Guinness book of records lists it as the “largest comprehensive Hindu temple”, but other temples dispute this claim.  The temple is 141.3 ft high, 316 ft wide, and 356 ft long.

 I call it a concrete, religious Disneyland.  (Given Delhi’s air pollution, I wonder how long it will last.)  I am not the first to draw this conclusion.  I discovered an article in the NY Times entitled “The Disney Touch at a Hindu Temple.”

  The first building is called the “Hall of Values.”  In it, the visitor moves from theater to theater to see animatronic presentations about Swaminarayan’s life.  The experience is much like that in the General Electric Theater, except that there are more than just two presentations and you move rather than the displays.  For photos, you will have to look on the official website.  http://www.akshardham.com/whattosee/hallofvaules/index.htm

 In the next building, there is an IMAX movie about Swaminarayan’s life.  http://www.akshardham.com/whattosee/giantscreenfilm/index.htm  It pretty much covers the same topics as the animatronics, so very repetitive.

 After a long wait to get into the third building, we got on a boat just like you do for Pirates of the Caribbean or Small World.  Thankfully, there was no music like in the latter, and the scenes did not repeat those seen in the animatronics or film.  Instead, they represented India’s “firsts” during the period before Christ when Vedic culture was at its intellectual peak, although the very last display was of Swaminarayan and his successors and I’m not sure about the veracity of the claims at “firstness”.  http://www.akshardham.com/whattosee/boatride/index.htm

 I love Disneyland, but, needless to say, I didn’t think much of this three hour bore.

I’m back from the Himalayas

Tuesday, April 13th, 2010

I’m back from the Himalayas, and I have thousands of pictures and lots to talk about.  I’m going to try to write in my blog as I type up my personal journal and label my photos.  Hopefully, this will result in a more timely blog, but who knows.

As background for my trip–

I left February 15 and returned April 6.  I spent approximately 1 week in India (a few days at the beginning and a few more at the end of the trip), 3 weeks in Bhutan, and 3 weeks in Nepal.  Of the seven weeks, I spend 3 of them trekking–1 in Bhutan and 2 in Nepal.  I also visited an animal park in Nepal and a spa in India.  In Bhutan, I spent a lot of time birding.

I worked through a travel agent in California referred to me by Nina Fogelman of Ancient Summit.  Born in Delhi, Tara Guptawas great!  She arranged all sorts of special things for me.  I especially enjoyed meeting her cousin Veena who took me shopping and to dinner.  We had a great time!  On my last evening in Delhi, I was supposed to go to Tara’s mother’s home for dinner between my return to Delhi on a domestic flight and my departure home.  But, unfortunately, my domestic flight was late, so there just wasn’t enough time to do this.  Very disappointing!

If you plan on visiting this part of the world, be sure to contact Tara at taragupta01@gmail.com

For the touring in Bhutan and Nepal, Tara worked with Kerina  Rowley of Journeys in Ann Arbor, MI.  In Bhutan, Journeys used Lhomen tours and in Nepal, their own Journeys subsidiary.  I was very pleased with my guide, driver and arrangements in Bhutan, and not so pleased with my trekking guide in Nepal. 

And now, on to Delhi–