Since we only had a half-day walk with an elevation gain of just 273′ followed by another long staircase loss of 1300′, we got to sleep in until 6 a.m. At 11,800′, we were higher than the freezing line in the South American equivalent of late December. My pack thermometer read 33 degrees F inside my tent. I saw a thin film of ice on a container of water left out in the open.
Maybe it was the cold, maybe it was the altitude, but I had to get up three times in the night to visit the facilities which were, thank goodness, very close to our campsite. Brrrr! No flush toilets here; but there was a large sink with several cold water spigots. Most facilities lacked any type of sink.
Toilets at Chaquicocha
It felt really good in the dining tent where our cook prepared omelets, toast, fruit, and hot chocolate for breakfast.
Dining, cooking and porter sleeping tent
The early morning light highlighted the snow-covered peak of the Pumasillo massif.
Pumasillo at Dawn from Chaquicocha
Probably because it was so cold, Yvette and Andrew were more efficient this morning, and we all left together at 7:20 a.m. This section of the trail was billed as one of the nicest on the trail, and it was. Much of it was through cloud forest habitat with all kinds of interesting plants and flowers.
This bush had daisy-like flowers.
There wasn’t much light so this blow-up isn’t very clear, but you’ll get the idea.
There were also some great views (and dropoffs) along this section of trail, including this view back towards camp with the ruins of Sayaqmarka up on the rocky spur near the center of the photograph.
Camp Chaquicocha with Sayaqmarka in Background
As you can see, most of the campsites were empty, and our porters were packed and almost ready to leave.
The tiny specks of red near the toilet building are the Llama Path porters
Our timing was right for the morning light on Sayaqmarka. From this viewpoint, although far away, one can better appreciate it’s fabulous location and how extensive the complex was.
Sayaqmarka
Here’s another snow-capped peak,
and a view of the trail through the cloud forest with a steep dropoff on the left. According to one guide book, many of these stones are original.
As a geocacher who loves to find geodetic markers, I was thrilled to find this one along the trail.
Geodetic Marker, Orden C, 107
As we neared the final ascent towards the third pass, we passed through a long tunnel. Remember, the men who built this had no explosives, no iron tools, just stones for chipping away at the bedrock.
Andrew in the Inca Tunnel
On the third pass (12,073′), we had a rest stop to take in the view.
Note the bush in the foreground. I couldn’t figure out if this was how the bush itself looked or whether this was an epiphyte like Spanish moss or a lichen. (In this whole area, it would have been nice to have a guide who was well-versed in botany.)
Not being in a hurry, I had plenty of time to investigate the plants in the area.
Just below the pass we got our first glimpse of Machu Picchu Mountain and a fabulous view down to the Urubamba and Aobamba river valleys. Machu Picchu Mountain is the lower right-hand corner, just behind the outcropping near where I’m standing.
Our first glimpse of Machu Picchu Mountain
It has a flag on top.
The Flag on Machu Picchu Mt
Although we hadn’t seen a sole since leaving camp, we were not alone at this viewpoint.
3rd Pass
I continued my botanical investigations,
while enjoying the view.
Below the pass are the Phuyupatamarka ruins. The name means “cloudy place”, but we had a beautiful, clear day.
Phuyupatamarka
We could also see Intipata off in the distance.
Intipata
At Phuyupatamarka, Romero had me point to the flag on Machu Picchu.
Pointing to Machu Picchu's Flag from Phuyupatamarka
Explore the Inca Trail describes the ruins as follows: “The design demonstrates the Inca passion for closely fitting the built environment to the natural contours of the site. Sinuous curves and serpentine terraces may suggest Gaudi’s 20th-century architecture in Barcelona more than late 15th-century Peru.”
Phuyupatamarca
I thought this building looked more like a shamrock.
Are there shamrocks in Peru?
From below, Phuyupatamarca looks more like a fortress.
Phuyupatamarca from below
From the third pass, it’s all downhill, mostly on steps. According to the aforementioned guide book there are 1300 to 1500 steps.
Steps down from 3rd pass
We eventually got to a spot with a great view down onto Intipata where potatoes, maize, fruit and sweet potatos were grown for Machu Picchu.
Intipata Agricultural Terraces and Dwellings
To be continued–