The hardest day of the trek!
A porter woke me up at 5 a.m. with a cup of coca tea. Breakfast, served at 5:45, consisted of porridge and a pancake with fruit–a heavy dose of carbs. Well-versed in how to pack up and get going on a camping trip after three weeks on the John Muir Trail, I was ready to start walking a few minutes after 6. The others were still brushing their teeth and packing when Romero said I could start. He knew I wasn’t going to break any speed records on the 2900-ft climb ahead of me. Besides, it was barely light.
The sun may have been up, but not far enough to penetrate the deep valleys.
Morning Twilight on the Inca Trail
Being by myself, I climbed at a nice steady, but slow pace stopping to take pictures and admire a waterfall and a short stretch of cloud forest. It was along this stretch that I began to see the signature trademarks of the Inca’s road-building laborers–stone-paving and steps, but alas the guidebook says the original were long ago destroyed by mules’ hooves. This stretch of trail was reconstructed in the 1990s.
Waterfall along Inca Trail
Inca Trail through some Cloud Forest
Thinking we had passed the last village and knowing trail users’ could not take pack animals beyond a certain point, I was surprised at being overtaken first by two llamas, then a few minutes later by a saddled, but riderless donkey, and eventually by a woman and finally a man.
A LLama on the Inca Trail
Both the woman and the man appeared to be carrying heavier loads than the llamas.
A Native Woman on the Inca Trail
It was along this stretch of steps that Yvette, Andrew and Romero caught up with me.
Andrew and Yvette; Romero's hidden by the tree on the right
When we exit the cloud forest, the sun still had not made it over the mountain tops.
Peaks near Dead Woman's Pass
After 1 3/4 hours of steady climbing we reached the last camp before Dead Woman’s Pass at Llulluchapampa (12,460′); that’s almost 1,000′ per hour.
Llulluchapampa Camp
We pressed on and after another 45 minutes the highest point on the trail was in sight–Dead Woman’s Pass at 13,779 ft. The pass gets it’s name from it’s profile which is likened to a supine woman; that’s one of her breasts on the right.
The final approach to Dead Woman's Pass
It doesn’t matter which way you look at it, the final approach is not easy.
Looking up the final approach
Looking down the final approach
I made it to the top in just over 3 1/2 hours. Not bad!
It’s a long ways down to the valley.
The Kusichaca River Valley from Dead Woman's Pass
We stayed long enough for a snack and the obligatory photos. First looking back from whence we came,
On Dead Woman's Pass
and then looking forward.
On Dead Woman's Pass
At this point my knees trembled. They do not like going downhill.
The Steps Down from Dead Woman's Pass
The young folks just lept from stone to stone, but I took my time zig-zagging and letting my poles absorb the biggest shocks. Two hours and the loss of 2,000 ft in just 2 km (1.2 mi) later, I arrived at Pacaymayu to find lunch waiting. (I was too busy negotiating the steps to take pictures.)
Dead Woman's Pass from Pacaymayu (note the cell tower)
Lunch included a salad of lettuce, ham and cheese; asparagus soup; chicken filets; beef with onions and potatoes; and quinoa. There was no time for a rest this day as we had to make it over another pass before reaching our campsite, which was estimated to be four hours away. Our porters were packing up as we finished eating and made our toilet stops. (A real flush toilet at this spot, not one of those squat ones that we found most places.)
Llama Path porters packing gear at Pacaymayu
We were back on the trail by 1 p.m. As we climbed we could see that some groups were going to spend the night where we had lunch.
Tents at Pacaymayu
The second pass, which had no name, was at 13,123′, or 1,423′ up from Pacaymayu–just under a half of the morning’s climb.
Andrew heading up to 2nd Pass
Did I mention the stunning views when I stopped looking at my feet?
The View while climbing to 2nd Pass
On this climb I had a chance to put the morning’s descent into perspective. Rarely was it possible to see this much of the trail at one time.
Camp Pacaymayu and Dead Woman's Pass
Just before the 2nd Pass we made a brief stop at Runkuraqay. This ruin is often referred to as the Egg Hut because of its shape. Most guide books say it was the watch-tower for a tambo.
The "Egg Hut" at Runkuraqay
From the top of Dead Woman’s Pass to the top of 2nd Pass there were numerous waterfalls up on the mountainsides. Unfortunately, they don’t show up very well in my photos.
At the top of 2nd Pass, people were taking the opportunity to rest,
Llama Path porter on 2nd Pass
soak up the sun,
Sunbather on 2nd Pass
and admire the view.
Romero, Yvette, and Andrew taking in the view
Me, I adjusted my knee braces and tightened my poles in preparation for another steep descent of about 1,300′.
The way down from 2nd Pass
Although there were a couple of places with huge steps, I found these steps much easier than the ones in the morning. They were steeper, but more even–more like a staircase in places–making it possible to get a rhythm.
Hikers on the steps down from 2nd Pass
On this hillside we passed through a microclimate where there were flowers blooming.
A Lady-Slipper?
Fifteen minutes later as we circle the mountain, the view opens up and reveals the ruins of Sayaqmarka (11,800′). Situated like Machu Picchu on a rocky spur, it commands sweeping views.
Sayaqmarka
Andrew and Yvette arrived long before me.
Sayaqmarka (Andress stands in the circular building at left)
The thought of descending the steep steps up to the ruins almost deterred me from going.
The steps up to Sayaqmarka
These ruins have been extensively restored.
At Sayaqmarka
An observatory?
As part of the sweeping views one can see the ruins of the Conchamarka tambo and our path,
Conchamarka (tambo)
as well as our campsite on the other side of the valley. It was 4:15 p.m. and I had been walking since a little after 6 a.m. And camp was way over there!
Chaquicocha Campsite
In fact, the trail circled the valley, making it a fairly easy 45 minute stroll to camp.
Tea was waiting, so I waited until morning to take my camp photo.
Camp at Chaquicocha
In addition to the usual popcorn, we had some delicious cheese wonton. Dinner included a soup, chicken leg with potatoes and rice, and chocolate pudding. I was too tired to record anything else.