Finally, it’s time to move on to my primary reason for traveling to Peru–hiking to Machu Picchu via the Inca Trail. Usually some version of this walk makes any list of the top treks in the world, so it’s no surprise that it has been on my bucket list for a long time. Since I’m not getting any younger, it was time to go. I chose the classic version of the trek, 45 km starting from Km. 82 in 3 1/2 days.
First, some background about the trail. The Inca were great road builders. Just like the Romans, they needed the means for moving troops around and for communicating with their far-flung administrators in an empire that stretched some 2,400 miles from Quito south to the Maule River in Chile. By the time the Spanish arrived, an estimated 40,000 km of roads existed, and, also like Roman roads, these roads were built to last since the Inca expected to be around awhile. On the other hand, none of the Andean peoples had developed the wheel, so there were no wide carts or wagons moving along the roads, just men and llamas. Of course, without horses or oxen to pull something with wheels, there had been no reason to invent such a conveyance. Thus, Inca roads tended to be narrower than Roman roads. Moreover, the engineers who laid them out had no need to worry about creating smooth, gradual inclines to insure horse-drawn wheeled vehicles could make it over the mountains. Thus, steps were obviously the best way to get up or down steep inclines. And why would you use switchbacks which require more linear distance than steps to achieve the same change in elevation, especially when the trail is being carved out of bedrock?
The roads were paved with flat stones. When necessary, retaining walls and culverts were used to insure the road could survive the summer monsoons, and, occasionally, a tunnel was somehow hand-carved through a rocky outcrop that could not be circumnavigated.
Most of what we call the Classic Inca Trail was the road built by the Inca Pachacuti to provide access for building his new retreat at Machu Picchu. It was built so that the bearers who carried the Inca on his litter to his retreat could give him a smooth ride. (As a person prone to motion sickness, I just can’t imagine that riding would be better than walking.)
Classic Inca Trail Schematic Map
Classic Inca Trail Map
Another version with North on top
Today’s classic trek usually begins near kilometer 82 of the rail line between Cusco and Aguas Calientes. While the tracks hug the bank of the river through the narrow gorge on the last leg of the trip, the road stops at Piskacucho.
Access to the trail is restricted; only 500 people, including guides, cooks, and porters, can enter the trail per day, and one cannot travel solo without a licensed guide. My group of three trekkers was accompanied by a staff of nine. If that ratio of 1 to 3 were consistent across trekking companies and group size, only 125 trekkers could start the trail per day. Reservations are a must!
Not all trekking companies are equal. Nina booked me with Llama Path. The staff are treated very well by the companies’ owners, which include a former porter. On the trail, they are easy to recognize as they wear red uniforms, carry real (red) backpacks (not baskets or tarps or blankets loaded with gear), and have real hiking boots (not sandals). Moreover, their loads seem to be lighter.
Llama Path Staff
The evening before departure, we three trekkers met for the first time at the Llama Path office. My companions were a young couple from West Los Angeles–Andrew and Yvette. They were one month into an 8+-month around-the-world tour. Our guide was Romero.
Not all versions of the Classic Inca Trail are equal in difficulty. There are multiple campsites along the first section of the trail, and where your company chooses to pitch its tents effects how far you will hike and how much elevation you will gain and lose in a day. If you have done any training at all for the trek, it is easier to walk further the first day so that on day 2, which has the most elevation gain, you start higher and have less distance to travel. We camped the first night at Ayapata after a 14-km walk with a gain of 1,900 feet. As a consequence, we had a 3,000-ft climb to the highest point on the trail the next morning rather than a 4,000-ft climb. Friends who took the trek a few days later with another company spent the first night at the lower camp and found that climb an exhausting way to start the day.
Our Inca Trail itinerary was as follows:
Day 1: Km 82 (8,923’) to Ayapata (10,829’) with lunch at Wayllabamba (9,842’). The 12km to the lunch spot was estimated to take 5 hrs; the 2 km from there to Ayapata 1.3 hrs.
Day 2: Ayapata (10,829’) to Dead Woman’s Pass (13,779’) and then down to Pacaymayo (11,700’) for lunch—8.5km, 7 hrs; Pacaymayo over 2nd pass (13,123’) to Chaquicocha camp (11,800’)—7.5 km, 4 hrs.
Day 3: Chaquicocha (11,800’) to 3rd pass (12,073’)—2 hrs, and then another 3 hrs down to Wiñay Huayna at 8,792’, a total distance of 10km.
Day 4: Wiñay Huayna to the Sun Gate (8,956’) and Machu Picchu (7,873’), a total distance of 5km.
Not all guides are equal. My guide for the trek into the Colca Canyon, Omar, was far superior to Romero in terms of interests. We had really interesting discussions about birds, geology, culture, history, religion, etc. While Romero knew his history, he clearly had his prepared spiel and had trouble with interuptions and interjections. On the other hand, he had lots of experience in dealing with clients of all levels of trekking ability and experience. He was an excellent coach.
Not all porters are equal. Ours appeared to be a happy bunch. They joked and laughed among themselves and were quick to smile. Since we were a small group, they set up the kitchen in half of the dining tent with just a partial cloth wall partition. That meant we could watch them cook and talk to them while they were preparing meals if we stood up. Unfortunately, only one of the porters, a student, spoke English very well; some of the others understood at least some English. While my companions spoke Spanish, some of the porters only spoke Quechua.
Every other year the guides and porters can participate in a race along the 27-mile Inca Trail. Just a few years ago someone broke the 1997 record of 3 hrs 45 min with a spectacular run of 3 hr 24 min. The typical tourist trekker takes 3 1/2 days!