Archive for December, 2009

Ollantaytambo–Part 2

Saturday, December 12th, 2009

When the first-time visitor arrives at the base of the Ollantaytambo terraces, the structures which capture the eye are not on Cerro Bandolista; they are across the valley on Cerro Pinkuylluna.

Inca Storehouses on Cerro Pinkuylluna

Inca Storehouses on Cerro Pinkuylluna

Perched on the steep slopes of the hillside, these buildings were the Inca’s personal storehouses for the produce of his estate. 

Cerro Pinkuylluna as seen from Cerro Bandolista with the village of Ollantaytambo in between

Cerro Pinkuylluna as seen from Cerro Bandolista with the village of Ollantaytambo in between

The hillside is littered with the ruins of these storehouses, many of them in seemingly inaccessible locations.

Storehouse Ruins, Ollantaytambo

The most visible ruins are of three identical, but separate buildings.  Each had six tall windows on the downhill side, ten on the uphill side, and a doorway and a window in each gable end.  The rear section of each floor was raised, and there were covered drains or ventilation channels carved into the raised sections.

Protzen conducted some experiments on airflow using a scale model of these buildings in a wind tunnel.  He found that the closeness of the buildings with  their high-pitched roofs created negative pressure zones between the roofs and at the back of the uphill building making the buildings quite aerodynamic.  Ventilation even improved when the buildings were filled.

For details, see Jean-Pierre Protzen, Inca Architecture and Construction at Ollantaytambo, Oxford University Press, 1993.

Ollantaytambo–Part 1

Saturday, December 12th, 2009
Ollantaytambo, like Pisac, was built by Pachacuti for his own private use at the other, northern end of the Sacred Valley.
Ollantaytambo Terraces and Temples

Ollantaytambo Terraces and Temples

Unlike Pisac, the residential quarters were in the valley.  The structures atop the rocky spur, which was drastically modified to create the appropriate setting, were ceremonial, religious buildings, and they were never completed.  Since Pachacuti died around 1471, some fifty years before the arrival of the Spanish, the estate was technically owned and managed by and for his panaca or descendants.  At one time, there were around 1,000 workers on the estate, but none of the sources I’ve read speak to its status before Manco Inca arrived after initiating his rebellion in Cusco and retreating to here in July 1536 when Sacsayhuaman was lost to the Pizarros. 

Agricultural Terraces at Ollantaytambo

Agricultural Terraces of Pumatallis at Ollantaytambo

Remember my post on the battle over Cusco (November 19th)?  Here, I take up that story again.

Manco Inca set up his headquarters at Ollantaytambo while part of his army continued to lay siege to Cusco and one of his best generals, Quizo Yupanqui, set about insuring Francisco Pizarro could not send reinforcements from Lima with an ultimate goal of routing Francisco Pizarro out of Lima.  Manco quickly turned the rural estate into a fortress.

Ollantaytambo Fortifications

Ollantaytambo--Funerary Sector

Note the incredible amount of work that must have gone into carving out the steps and smoothing the walls.

Hand-smoothed Walls at Ollantaytambo

Hand-smoothed Walls at Ollantaytambo

When Hernando Pizarro pursued Manco to Ollantaytambo with 100 Spanish soldiers (70 calvary and 30 infantry) and 30,000 native allies, his forces encountered a stronghold filled with 30,000 soldiers, many of them Antis from the jungles armed with bows and arrows.  Using  slingshots and bows to hurl rocks and arrows from terraces about a quarter-mile to the east of those shown here, Manco’s warriors fought off the Spanish.  Meanwhile, he had the dams used to channel water from the river into the valley’s irrigation system destroyed, so that the Spanish horses lost their maneuverability in the rising water.  They barely managed to escape from the valley and never re-attempted a takeover of Ollantaytambo.

Of course, within a few months, Almagro returned to Cusco, and both he and Hernando were more interested in wooing Manco’s support in their struggle to gain control of each other.  Sometime in 1537, Manco decided neither faction could be trusted and that his situation was so precarious he’d be safer in the jungle at Vilcabamba and abandoned Ollantaytambo.  Once the Pizarros eliminated Almagro, they pursued Manco, who again managed to escape, but his wife did not.  The Pizarros took her back to Ollantaytambo where they tortured and killed her, and then sent her body down the river to let Manco know what they had done.

For some reason, perhaps because the residential area was on the valley plains and not in a defensible, hillside position, Ollantaytambo remained inhabited and now proudly boasts that it has some of the oldest continuously occupied dwellings in South America.

The following view, taken from the funerary sector looking across the terraces to the temple sector, depicts several features worthy of further discussion–the Enclosure of the Ten Niches on the uppermost terrace level and the incomplete Temple of the Sun at the upper right where the people are standing.  Note the massive, partially cut stones that litter the unfinished site.

View of Temple Sector at Ollantaytambo

To the right of the ten niches is the Wall of the Unfinished Gate.

Enclosure of the Ten Niches and the Wall of the Unfinished Gate

Enclosure of the Ten Niches and the Wall of the Unfinished Gate

No one knows where the doorway would have led.

Wall of the Unfinished Gate

Wall of the Unfinished Gate

This wall and those of this set of terraces were constructed using a unique form of masonry not found anywhere else.  Named scutiform masonry by Harthe-terre, many of the stones have tails that project into the joint in the course below.  Compare these walls with those of the Enclosure of Ten Niches, where there are no such tails.

Note the difference in masonry between the Enclosure of the Ten Niches and the other walls

Note the difference in masonry between the Enclosure of the Ten Niches and the other walls

As Jean-Pierre Protzen notes in his book on Inca Architecture and Construction at Ollantaytambo, this site, due to its work-in-progress nature, provides an unparalleled opportunity for studying Inca construction methods.  Many of the stones that appear destined for the Sun Temple were being re-cycled, but there is nothing to indicate what the original structure was or where it was located.

Partially worked stones and the north wall of the Sun Temple

Partially worked stones and the north wall of the Sun Temple

Here’s an even closer look at the really odd north wall.  Note the crude rubble fill between the obviously recycled stones,

North Wall of Sun Temple

North Wall of Sun Temple

and compare it to the exquisite, cyclopean Wall of Six Monoliths which faces towards the people standing on the left.

Wall of Six Monoliths

Wall of Six Monoliths

I don’t remember where I saw the following stockpile of building material, so I can’t connect them to Protzen’s diagrams.

Niches in Waiting? Discards? Leftovers?

Niches in Waiting? Discards? Leftovers?

On the plain below the Fortress, I found this beautiful fountain, which is still working.

 

Fountain at Ollantaytambo

Pachacuti’s Country Estate at Pisaq

Tuesday, December 1st, 2009

The prevailing theory seems to be that Pachacuti had Pisac (and Ollantaytambo) built after he defeated the Cuyos (and Tambos) in the Vilcanota (or Sacred) Valley.  They were his private estates, designed to both protect the valley from attack and to provide food and other resources necessary to support his family and descendants. (MacQuarrie, p. 439)

Pisac Terraces

Pisac is huge.  The ruins here are unique in that there are four distinct building areas: P’isaqa, Qanchiracay, Intihuatana, and Q’allaqasa for the elite, agricultural, religious, and military inhabitants of the complex.

Pisac map

I like the following view because it gives the viewer an idea of what the terraces looked like before and after restoration following about 400 years of non-use.Pisac Terraces

Look carefully at the slopes in the background.  It looks as if the terraces extended almost to the peak.  Given all the easily accessible good farmland in the valley, the amount of  land cultivated on the mountainsides during the time of the Incas would appear to be unnecessary unless there were a whole lot of people living here. 

Looking up the hillside from Intihuatana

Not all of the terraces were for farming.  More than 3,000 burial places stud the hillside.

Ransacked burial sites at Pisaq

Ransacked burial sites at Pisaq

And here’s a view from across the valley.

Pisac terraces as seen from across the valley

Each of the “villages” has its own character with the religious sector having the finest architecture and the Intihuatana or Sun Temple having the best of the best.

Pisaq religious sector

Pisaq religious sector

The Intihuatana and other temples
The Intihuatana and other temples

Like the Intihuatana in other locales, it is the building with the curved walls encasing a natural stone outcrop.

Intihuatana or Sun Temple

Intihuatana or Sun Temple

Also note the crude stone building to the right of the Intihuatana in the middle image.  It seems very out of place, but if there is a theory about its purpose and location, I haven’t found it yet.
Rough stone building in religious sector

Rough stone building in religious sector

Compare the workmanship to these buildings.

Temple at Pisaq

The Q’allaqasa or military citadel sits strategically above the confluence,

Q'allaqasa or military sector at Pisac
Q’allaqasa or military sector at Pisac

while the elite lived lower down on the hillside at Pisaqa.

Q'allaqasa or military district of Pisac

Pisaqa

 The peons had the crudest building works, at least as reconstructed.

A rebuilt structure at Qanchiracay

A rebuilt structure at Qanchiracay

Qanchiracay

Qanchiracay

Given the reconstruction and restoration of all but the best walls that have withstood the tests of time, it is hard to know where the reality of the 16th century has been usurped by the imagination of the 20th.  For example, look closely at the steps in the following image.  Rarely did any of the thousands of steps on the Inca Trail look this even or of such uniform height.  Obviously, some changes have made made for visitor safety, but once one begins to question, one doesn’t know where to stop. 

Was this really what it looked like around 1500?

Was this really what it looked like around 1500?

This dilemma on the part of both the caretaker and the visitor is not unique to Incan ruins.  I’ve encountered it time and time again in the American Southwest where the National Park Service (and other custodians of American Indian ruins) struggle to make places like the Cliff Palace at Mesa Verde National Park both safe and true to the past when starting with not much more than a pile of rocks and no written records.

Cliff Palace, Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado

Cliff Palace, Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado