Archive for June, 2009

Hiking in the San Gabriels and Mount San Jacinto

Tuesday, June 16th, 2009

In preparation for hiking in Peru, I spent the last week hiking in the mountains to the east of Los Angeles.  My 82-year old uncle gamely came along to keep me company while I base-camped at Table Mountain (7500′, near Wrightwood) and Manker Flats (6200′, north of Claremont).  Several of the hikes took us up to and along the Pacific Crest Trail.  We averaged well over 1000′ of elevation gain as we climbed from Big Pines to Blue Ridge Campground, from Islip Saddle to Little Jimmy Campground, and from Dawson Saddle to Throop Peak.  The last of these started at 7,903′, the highest point on the Angeles Crest Highway.  We were very lucky to be able to do the latter two hikes as the road had been closed for over three years between Vincent Gap and Islip Saddle; it re-opened just a few weeks ago.

View from the PCT near Blue Ridge Campground

Looking Down from Near Throop Peak into the Los Angeles BasinHeading Up from Islip Saddle

Manker Flats Campground is at the base of Mount San Antonio, locally known as Old Baldy and the highest point in Los Angeles County.  We only hiked to the ski hut at 8200′, a steady trudge up the fire road shown in the photo below.

The Easy Trail up to Mt Baldy Ski Lodge

The next day we took it easy and hiked just a couple of miles up Icehouse Canyon to the Cucamonga Wilderness boundary.   This trail differed dramatically from the one up Mt. Baldy–the rocky footpath  followed a stream up a verdant valley where a flood had wiped out many of the original cabins leaving all sorts of ruins to explore.

Cabin Ruins in Icehouse Canyon

After five nights of no showers (or shaving for Harry), we headed for a motel in downtown Palm Springs.  We left the foggy, chilly nights around a campfire for the warm desert breezes and patio dining after a couple of hours sipping beers by the pool.

The next morning we joined about 30 other hikers catching the first tramup to Mt. San Jacinto State Park.   From the tram station, it’s a 10-11 mile roundtrip hike to the peak with an elevation gain of 2300′.  Harry did quite well, making it to Wellman Divide where he sat and rested for three hours while I continued on to the peak.

The StartThe SummitAnother Mile to Go

The El Tovar 2009

Saturday, June 6th, 2009

She’s had a face-lift.  Last year when I visited in May, the yard was a construction zone and the tower was in scaffolding. El Tovar May 2008  El Tovar 2009

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the first time,  I actually had the opportunity to stay here.  While it was nice and had the ambiance of a luxury hotel, the Rim Cabin at Bright Angel Lodge I had the first night had far more character. 

El Tovar RoomBright Angel Rim Cabin

 

 

 

 

 

 

The view was also spectacular, especially when compared to the parking lot behind El Tovar.  Just a few feet from my front door was a bench where I could watch the sunrise.

Canyon Sunrise

This year I also spent some time talking about Fred Harvey postcards with Tom Ratz, a fellow collector who has worked at the El Tovar for almost thirty years.  He’s about to have a book of canyon views, both photographs and postcards, published by Arcadia.  Meanwhile, unwilling to settle for black and white, I’m still trying to find a publisher of my canyon history illustrated with 300 color postcards.   Oh well.

Anyway, if you ever have a chance to dine at El Tovar and want an expert to point out changes from the following view and today, be sure to ask for Tom.

El Tovar Dining Room H12993

Searching for Fred Harvey 2009-NAU

Tuesday, June 2nd, 2009

After the abrupt termination of my 2006 “Searching“, I finally had the opportunity to peruse the Fred Harvey Collection at Northern Arizona University Cline Library.  I barely finished going through the dozen boxes of material I had selected to review in the 18 hours I had allotted.  Like all archival searches, there were boxes of irrelevant materials, lots of stuff I had seen before, some interesting although irrelevant tidbits of information, and a few gems of new, relevant data.  I even found the source of some oft-cited, but undocumented facts.

Most of the material dated from after the purchase of Fred Harvey by Amfac in 1968, a period I have not paid much attention to since most of the Fred Harvey postcard views in my manuscript The Grand Canyon: A Fred Harvey Postcard History pre-date World War II.  Some of the most relevant materials were letters from a blacksmith hired to recreate the bear trap for Hermit’s Rest, along with numerous other items.

That means the bear trap in Hermit's Rest Porch 2006the picture below is not the one on the postcard.  No real surprise given the span of 80 years, but it’s nice to have proof of one’s suspicions.  The Porch, Hermit's Rest

Whittlesey’s Arts and Crafts Masterpiece in Flagstaff

Monday, June 1st, 2009

Charles F. Whittlesey, the Santa Fe’s chief architect who became well-known for his reinforced concrete buildings, also designed more rustic buildings in the Arts and Crafts style–the El Tovar at the Grand Canyon being the most notable.  In 1903, while living in Albuquerque to supervise the construction of the Alvarado, Whittlesey designed homes in the arts and crafts style for both himself in Albuquerque and the Riordan brothers in Flagstaff.  Both of these homes have many features in common with the El Tovar–exteriors of log and stone, log-slab siding, Norwegian-style cutout railings and wainscoting, wide verandas, and inglenooks.

The Riordan mansion was designed as two separate 6,000-sq. ft. residences connected by a 1,000-sq. ft. Rendezvous room, referred to be the Riordans as the “cabin.”  Tim and Michael Riordan had married two sisters–Caroline and Elizabeth Metz.  The Riordans’ mansion was located within walking distance of their  Arizona Lumber and Timber Company offices and operations.

Donated by their descendents to the State of Arizona, the mansion is now a part of the state park system and hour-long guided tours are given by park rangers.  See Riordan Mansion State Historic Park for more details.

Riordan Mansion--side viewRiordan Mansion--rear view

Flagstaff Route 66 Volksmarch

Monday, June 1st, 2009

Southside Garden WhimsyThe Tucson Volkssport Klub sponsors three year round walks in Flagstaff.  The “Route 66″ 10k traverses the campus of Northern Arizona University, areas of the downtown historic district, and a not-very-interesting stretch of Route 66.  Along the way one can hunt for several geocaches (I only found 1 of the 2 I looked for), visit the train station-visitor center, lunch at a sidewalk cafe (I had a very good chili cheeseburger at Cafe Pickle), check out some of the early territorial architecture (not all have been fixed up as nicely as the one I show below), and drop in at Barnes and Noble (a good place to get out of the rain).

A Flagstaff bungalowNAU DomeMural on a bike store